Sarah Marsh MW’s coverage of this delightful vintage continues with her extensive notes on the wines of the Côte de Beaune.
2022 Burgundy: Harmony born of an easy season
2022 Burgundy: A guide to the villages and vineyards
2022 Burgundy: A delightful Chablis vintage
Related
2022 Burgundy: Chablis tasting notes
2022 Burgundy: Côte de Nuits tasting notes part I
2022 Burgundy: Côte de Nuits tasting notes part II
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Côte de Beaune: Pernand-Vergelesses
DOMAINE DUBREUIL-FONTAINE
Christine Gruère-Dubreuil comments: “2022 is classic. Very nice balance. It is fresh and has good structure. A little like 2019, but probably fresher. The reds have good tannin structure, not heavy, but elegant and fresh. 2020 was a little big, even too much, but 2022 is a very good vintage in Burgundy, especially after 2021. The reds will be easy to drink young but will also age. The whites have a balance of freshness and ripeness, but I’m not sure it is a very long-term vintage.”
White
Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Clos Berthet (Monopole)
A 3.7-acre (1.5ha) monopole, southwest-facing, planted in white. Maybe more mineral than Sous Frétille, and longer. There’s real tension here. Compact. Unsprung. A firm, cold finish. Very good. 2026–32. 92
Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Sous Frétille
20% new oak and some concrete eggs. Cucumber-fresh, with a slicing, savory note, citrusy and juicy, with a salty/sunny finish. 2025–29. 91
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
There is a little more new oak here—25%. Surprisingly opulent for En Charlemagne, but still with freshness and minerality on the long and savory finish. 2027–35. 95–96
Red
Pernand-Vergelesses
Sweet, blueberry fruit. Supple tannins, licorice, and a fresh, bitter-chocolate bite to the finish. Delicious. 2025–30. 86
Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru Les Vercots
Punchy attack, with deep, inky, purple fruit. Gutsy tannins and loads of vigor. Dark earth and gamey notes. 2026–30. 87
Beaune Premier Cru Montrevenots
Super-spicy and aromatic on both nose and palate. Soft and airy and quite “purple,” with a floral, spicy finish. Not especially long, but certainly extravagant. 2026–30. 87
Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Île des Vergelesses
Dark cherry and licorice. Super-silky tannin. Pure, streamlined, and refined. Restrained and intense. 2026–32. 93–94
Pommard Premier Cru Epenots
Elegant Pommard, with a velvety texture and a seductive finish. 2027–35. 94–95
Corton Bressandes Grand Cru
Fruity and rich on the nose. Generous, rounded palate, with glossy, supple tannins, and a succulent finish. 2027–35. 94–95
Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru
Richness, density, and power, with the longest finish of the Cortons here. 2028–35+. 96
Corton Perrières Grand Cru
Slightly strict, mineral, and tight. Savory and straight. Nice, sapid finish. 2027–35. 95
DOMAINE RAPET ET FILS
“We were lucky to have 60mm [2.4 inches] of rain in June, and this is why 2022 is not like 2020. Thanks to the rain, the fruit is red and not black,” remarks Robin Rapet, who joined the domaine full-time for the 2022 vintage and who is taking over progressively in the winery from his father. He is keen on low added sulfur levels—total for the whites at 50–60. For the whites, 350-liter barrels are used, plus concrete eggs for a small part of Caradeux Blanc and Corton-Charlemagne, which, Robin says, has improved the tension. Vincent Rapet considers the 2022s to be richer than the 2020s for white and the reverse for red. It reminds him of 2009 at the same stage, as the early malolactic also made those wines very accessible young. Robin Rapet thinks that the whites will not age as well as the 2020s or 2021s, “which are more vintages to keep 20 years, but the 2022 reds will be good now and will also keep.”
White
Pernand-Vergelesses Les Combottes
From vines at an altitude around 1,050ft (320m), facing southwest. White peach and grapefruit, with a silky texture and soft minerality. Spot-on village wine. 2024–26. 86
Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru En Caradeux
From a climat with an easterly exposition. Fresh citrus aroma. Pounces on the palate, with good density and some richness, and savory grip to finish. 2025–32. 90
Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Clos de Village
From a 1.2-acre (0.5ha) plot belonging to Rapet’s neighbor. It is walled, so protected from the wind, but also gets quite hot, as it also has a southerly exposition and white clay in the soil. Lush apricot, rounded and lightly glossy. Quite rich and unctuous, with just nice acidity and some energy on the finish. 2024–28. 87–88
Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Sous Frétille
Rapet made no wine from this site in 2021 because of the frost. The domaine has two parcels, one on either side of the hill, so one faces east, the other, west. The rock is just 16–20 inches (40–50cm) below the topsoil, and their old vines, planted in the 1960s, dig deep into the white clay. Zesty, lemony intensity combines well with the smooth, silky minerality. There’s sunny and elegant stretch on the palate, to a sweet and saline finish. 2026–32. 91–92
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Mostly from west-facing En Charlemagne, with just a touch from Le Charlemagne, the vines planted in 1945, 1950, and during the 1980s. Aged in 25% new oak. Pure, linear, and vigorous, with well-defined edges. Powerful, steely, and persistent. A really good example. 2028–35. 96
Red
Beaune Premier Cru Bressandes
From 12 rows of Chardonnay, right at the top of the vineyard, making just one barrel (there are seven barrels of the red). Light and floral aroma. Touch of fresh red fig. So juicy, with silky tannins. It is quite soft but very charming. 2026–30. 91–92
Beaune Premier Cru Les Cents Vignes
“From vines planted in 1953—the first vineyard my grandfather bought in Beaune,” says Robin. Floral aroma (violets), then a silky texture, decent concentration, and a fresh feel overall. A good Cent-Vignes. 2026–32. 90
Beaune Premier Cru Clos du Roi
Like Les Cents Vignes, this is a flat climat, and always the first plot Rapet harvests—on August 28 in 2022, bottled exactly a year later. “It always has a light profile.” But it is still quite exotic, with ripe summer fruit, and so sweet as to be almost syrupy. Very soft tannins. 2024–27. 88
Beaune Premier Cru Grèves
From the lieu-dit Sur Les Grèves, at the top of the site, where the clay is very light, and vines planted in 1960. A wilder feel—more forest fruit and animal. Black pepper. But also quite fine-boned and delicate. Vibrant and fresh. Good tension. Chalky, long finish. Lovely. 2026–35+. 94
Chorey-lès-Beaune
Red fruit, crisp acidity, and crunchy tannins. Pleasing. 2024–26. 84
Pernand-Vergelesses Belles Filles
Facing east, this is normally the last plot to be harvested. A short maceration of only 12 days. Fully destemmed. Summery red fruit on both nose and palate; ripe strawberry. Nicely balanced with acidity. Just a light brush of tannin. It is light and charming. 2024–26. 85
Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Les Vergelesses
From a parcel at 720–820ft (220–250m), with red soil, planted in the 1960s and in 2018. Floral notes. Surprisingly silky and streamlined for Les Vergelesses. The red fruit is woven with fresh acidity. A rather persistent finish. Just a delight. 2026–32. 91
Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Fournaux
From old vines planted in 1956 and in heavy soil, this wine always has a low pH. Rich, jammy, dark fruit on the nose. Robust, dense, and spicy. 2026–28. 85–86
Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru Aux Fournaux
From the premier cru part of the vineyard, with only 12 inches (30cm) of topsoil where the rock rises closest to the surface. Deep, spicy aroma. Black-cherry fruit and white pepper. It’s spicy. Robust tannins and fresh acidity. It is grippy and biting. 2026–30. 88
Corton Grand Cru
From the bottom of the slope, with very good ripeness, as it’s warm here at night. Two thirds old vineyards from the 1960s. A rich, full-bodied, and generous wine. Savory, fresh leather notes; thick, suede-soft tannins. Very accessible. 2027–35. 94
Côte de Beaune: Aloxe-Corton
CLAIRE AND STÉPHANE FOLLIN-ARBELET
Stéphane Follin-Arbelet’s domaine was certified organic in 2022. He uses milk to combat disease in the vineyard and likes a high canopy—ft (2m)—but without bending over the branches. Stéphane says he’s gone beyond tressage, which, he finds, encourages humidity and rot. “There is much more acidity in higher vines.” Everything is done by hand. No tractors here!
Corton Clos Blanches Grand Cru
One 500-liter barrel (he made none at all in 2021), which is a fine-grain François Frères. Half will go to the family, as he has seven children, the cuvée being named after his only daughter, and youngest child, the 17-year-old Blanches. It is from Les Chaumes, which lies toward the bottom of the slope, a lieu-dit beneath Pougets and Charlemagne. Follin-Arbelet describes it as his garden. It is planted with vines and trees, including 20 cherry trees. “I want a paradise garden,” he says. Cool, restrained, mineral, and so fresh. Vibrant and energetic to finish. It is sappy and intense and persistent. I really like it. 2028–38+. 96
Côte de Beaune: Beaune
“I compare 2022 reds with the style of 2015, for the red fruit and tannins. And 2019 for the touch of a warmer sensation at the end of the mouth. 2019 was very pleasurable to taste early, and 2022 is also very approachable,” remarks technical director Frédéric Webber.
“I am more confident for the future of the reds. The whites are a bit more uneven, like 2017 or 2015. They are like 2015 for the opulence, the terroir, and their appealing, expressive character. They are like 2017 on the finish, which has more focus. For the reds, it is a very great vintage—maybe best red vintage recently. I prefer it to 2018, 2020, and 2021, and it may even be better than 2019, as it’s fresher.”
I have included the notes for six Meursault premiers crus, for their clear expression of the terroir in this vintage.
White
Beaune du Château Premier Cru
Floral and toasty aroma, with brioche, a touch of hay, and wildflower meadow. Sapid and savory almond kernel, with plenty of chalky freshness to finish. A blend of five parcels, and maybe the finish, which I really like, comes from the Grèves parcel. 2026–32. 92–93
Beaune Premier Cru Clos St-Landry
From 5 acres (2ha) on yellow marne, just above Tuvilains, which ripens quickly. Bouchard start the harvest with this and Meursault Genevrières. Aroma of dried apricot and candied ginger. Seductive, richly textured, fat and creamy, with leesy notes and a slight sourdough freshness to the rich palate, with its spicy finish. 2026–32. 92
Meursault Les Clous
From 20 acres (8ha) of vines on a slight slope, east- and northeast-facing, with white soil: a great place in warm summers. High-toned. Zesty, pithy grapefruit on the sprightly palate, which races on the sherbet, chalky finish. Love it. 2026–30+. 90–91
Meursault Premier Cru Les Bouchères
Ginger and honey aroma. Sumptuous, open, and hazy in contrast to the Porusots (below), but it catches itself after the broad mid-palate, becoming tighter, pithy, and zesty to finish. 2027–32. 93
Meursault Premier Cru Charmes
From rich, dense clay, which, Webber remarks, allow longer ripening. This is rich, generous, and seductive. It’s glossy, but has really good freshness. 2027–35. 94
Meursault Premier Cru Genevrières
More delicate and refined florals than the previous wines. This is more elegant. Certainly, there is richness on the attack, but the wine is finely textured with good acidity, tension, and a lively, long finish, where it pulls away. 2028–35. 94–95
Meursault Premier Cru Les Gouttes d’Or
Succulent and juicy. Open and chunky knit. Glossier than Bouchères or Porusots. Sweet and candied. Splashing and overt, but with freshness to finish. 2027–33. 92–93
Meursault Premier Cru Perrières
“One parcel is flat and rocky, on the site of an old Roman quarry,” says Webber, “which gives the sapidity, density, and aromatic precision, while the higher part is on white marl, which gives more citrus and fruit. Aged separately, half and half, but both are in the Dessus part of this prestigious cru. Stricter than the other front-runners. Tight, focused, and channeled. Chiseled edges. Races on an intense and vigorous palate. We go up a level here. 2028–40+. 95
Meursault Premier Cru Les Porusots
Bouchard’s Porusots and Bouchères rows adjoin, and yet the wines are so different, even having the same date of harvest. This is much punchier and firmer. Fuller, compact, and with good vigor. Darker. Smoky to finish. 2028–35. 93–94
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Chalumaux
Chunky and flowery Puligny. Open-textured and easy, but it has saltiness to finish. 2026–30. 93–94
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
A blend of the four terraces here: “The tangerine aroma comes from the second terrace.” Compressed and taut, channeled and refined. It has a fine and delightfully lingering and intense finish, with orange flower and salt. 2030–40. 97
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru La Cabotte
Not exactly Chevalier, nor Montrachet. Silky gloss, fabulous intensity and refinement, with more density and layering and power on the finish than the Chevalier from the terraces. 2030–45+. 98
Montrachet Grand Cru
From old vines planted between 1956 and 2000. Incredible focus. Eye-wateringly intense. This is a distillation of the terroir. It is also even more distinguished than the Cabotte, and splendidly long. Hang onto your hat! 2032–45+. 99
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
From an east-facing parcel, upslope, at nearly 1,000ft (300m) in altitude. The soil is marl and only some 3ft (1m) deep, on top of the rocky bedrock. “It has the north wind for freshness, and it also has the shadow in the evening. There’s no sun in the afternoon, so it’s always very fresh,” remarks Webber. Ripe up-front, but plenty of freshness and intensity, with bright salinity on the finish. Full then focused. Less rich than you might expect. 2028–37. 95–96
Red
Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru Les Lavières
From a large parcel of 10 acres (4ha): “South-facing but cool, for there is clay in the soil and I like to wait for full maturity.” 40% whole-bunch. Luscious, “purple” aroma, with forest fruits. Deeply juicy and succulent, with rich, fresh licorice tannins. Scrumptious. 2026–30+. 88
Beaune du Château Premier Cru
40% whole-bunch. Peppery attack. Crunchy tannins and oregano notes. “It will become more floral during the aging,” says Webber. 2026–32. 90
Beaune Premier Cru Clos de la Mousse
Summer fruits and exotic floral aromas, then on the palate, warm strawberries. A jammy, open-textured palate, quite loose and very approachable, with an attractive stemmy note to create the freshness. 2026–32. 92
Beaune Premier Cru Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus
Intense aroma, with festive spices of nutmeg and cinnamon; orange zest and dark chocolate. Sleek texture. Purrs across the palate. Elegantly fine texture. Beautifully woven black fruit, with fresh acidity, stretching out into a refined finish. 2028–40. 94–95
Beaune Premier Cru Teurons
From an east-facing slope and a limestone terroir, which ripens quickly. Harvested at the same time as the Volnay Cailleret, on August 25–26. Attractive, minty, and upright aroma. Fresh, lively, and fine-textured, with a chalky, sappy palate and a salty finish. Crunchy. “I know if I wait too long I get overripeness, Port and chocolate, and I prefer the energy,” remarks Webber. An excellent example. 2027–32. 93
Volnay Premier Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot
The chalky soil here ripens early, so Webber picked on the first day of the harvest, August 25. Lucid, delicate, red fruit and flowers, with a hint of mint. The breath of a cool morning heralding a warm summer’s day. Slim and pure. Talcy texture, fine, slippery, and delicate tannins, with a sprinkling of salt and a piano-wire finish. 2027–37. 95
Le Corton Grand Cru
From an east-facing parcel at more than 900ft (280m), with only 32 inches (80cm) of red clay soil over the bedrock limestone. Black-cherry aroma. Full and sumptuous attack, with bitter chocolate and spices. Burly and rich, with deep and thick tannins, but the freshness from the whole-bunch lifts and stretches the finish. 2030–38. 96
Echézeaux En Orveau Grand Cru
There are big diurnal differences in this parcel, which was harvested early. Wildflowers, a touch of lavender, and mint on the aroma, then an elegant, bright, and slight palate, with a light crunch to the tannins and a minty freshness to the finish. 2030–38. 96
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Picked much later, on September 10. A beautifully scented rose-petal aroma wafts generously into the palate, which has volume and intensity but is airy and perfumed. Finely woven line of freshness to a lingering perfumed finish. Haunting aromatics. Spot on. 2032–40+. 98–99
MAISON CHAMPY
Dimitri Bazas comments: “In 2022, I wanted freshness, and not too much opulence from very ripe fruit. Not everyone is comfortable with the rich 2020 profile, so I wanted to get back to something more classic. I think 2022 is like 2018 for reds. The whites can be compared with 2015—with better acidity, but the richness is similar.” Pernand-Vergelesses is really what Champy does best, I think. They have organic and biodynamic domaine vineyards in this village, and their heart is in it.
Bourgogne Pinot Noir Cuvée Edme
Some 75% of the fruit for this 60,000-bottle cuvée comes from the Mâconnais, and it is all fermented in stainless-steel tanks. Ripe citrus aroma, showing more tropical fruits of papaya and dried mango on the palate. It’s aromatically exotic, but nicely contained and shaped. It has a light and appealing bitterness at the end. A simple wine, but I’d happily drink this. 2024–27. 83
Pernand-Vergelesses
This is mainly Combottes, with a bit of Belles Filles in the blend. Citrus and cutting, with a lively, mineral finish. There’s a bit of tension on this straight palate. Spot-on. 2026–29. 86–87
Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru En Caradeux
This premier cru vineyard is southeast-facing and runs parallel with the road (follow the hill of Noël around until you are opposite En Charlemagne on the hill of Corton. Chunky, full, and yet fresh. Punchy. Lots of oomph. A bit of a gloss in 2022, but this is a savory wine with personality. 2026–32. 88
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
From a domaine parcel, organically cultivated, on the cooler face of En Charlemagne, so not harvested until September 12. Lively, keen and lean and nervy. This has a just-ripe lime note. I like the tension and the piercing finish, with a shiver of salt. 2028–2040+. 96
Red
Bourgogne Pinot Noir Cuvée Edme
From parcels below Volnay plus a little from Ladoix, with some purchased grapes. Named after Champy’s founder, who was a master cooper. Plentiful redcurrant and slightly grassy fruit, with pinging freshness, crunchy tannins, and good energy. 2024–28. 83–84
Pommard Les Cras
Dark forest fruits and spices. Planted north to south on the flat ground below the village. Deeply juicy; tarry licorice, with lots of tannin. Fresh enough and well-balanced. Ripe and chewy. 2026–30. 86
Volnay
One third of the blend comes from lieu-dit Les Famines, on the flat, which is the first of the domaine parcels to be harvested, while two thirds comes from Sur Roches, on the hill. This is a piquant and aromatic Volnay. Fresh and quite salty notes combine with very ripe summer fruit. Aromatic fullness through the mid-palate. 2026–30. 87–88
Beaune Premier Cru Aux Cras
Whole-bunch brings some freshness to this warm climat. Headily ripe, with lush summer fruit. Super-inviting and splashing. A herbal minty note lifts the finish. I like the contrast. 2027–32. 91
Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Les Vergelesses
Spicy, ripe aroma. A rough suede texture. Rich leathery characters combine with earthy, black, forest fruit and no lack of concentration. Cinnamon and a hint of orange zest to finish. Attractive in a rustic way, which is very typical of this terroir. 2027–32. 87–88
Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Île des Vergelesses
Slim, pure, and lively. Good tension. High mineral line. Skates on a sharp blade. So precise. A big step up from Les Vergelesses. 2028–35. 92
Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru Aux Vergelesses
From organically cultivated domaine vines, 50% whole-bunch. Ripe floral aroma. Succulent, summer-fruit palate. Sweet and pithy/sour balance. Somewhat herbal. 2026–32. 86–87
MAISON & DOMAINE JOSEPH DROUHIN
“In warmer vintages—especially 2018 and 2019—we noticed the work on the lees for the whites, without bâtonnage, helps to rebalance and bring freshness back,” says Frédéric Drouhin. “We do longer aging and use some larger 500l casks, but we started this in Chablis 20 years ago.” That change started in 2005, with the arrival of winemaker Jérome Faure-Brac. “The tricky thing is taste versus ripeness;” says Frédéric. “We take the risk to harvest later—to get flavors and not just sugar. The grape is a fruit, and must have flavor, and then the wine should have complexity.” Frédéric finds the 2022 whites to be between “2004 for freshness and 2005 for ripeness.” Or, among more recent vintages, between 2014 and 2018. For the reds, Drouhin likes 20–30% whole-bunch for village wine, and 30–40% for premiers crus, using a vertical press to separate the press-wine with more accuracy. Frédéric also find some similarities with 1990. “In red, 1990 for an older vintage, for its homogeneity, ripeness, sweetness, and freshness. Red 1990 was good from birth, with more concentration than 2009. Between 2005 for structure and 2009 for ripeness. 2022 is a vintage our customers will easily understand and enjoy. We have freshness in both white and red ,which brings elegance.”
White
Pouilly-Vinzelles
Fruit purchased from an organic producer. Fermented in 500-liter cask. Lively, citrus freshness on both nose and palate. Delicate, zesty, and pithy. Nutty almond and an edge of bitter almond kernel. Really attractive. 2024–28. 86
Puligny-Montrachet
Purchased grapes and wine. Orange blossom aroma. There is delicacy and intensity. Pure and straight; polished edges. This skates on smooth minerals through the finish. Very Puligny. 2026–32. 88
St-Romain
Purchased grapes from many parcels, including Sous le Château, but next year this will be domaine as Drouhin have bought Rapet’s estate in St-Romain. White peach and petals. It is pure and elegant; dewy fresh and floral, with a light chalky note and saline finish. Light, fresh, and vibrant. Very good example. Love it. 2024–30. 86
Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Mouches
A domaine wine. Rich, crystallized ginger, with plenty of concentration; an attractive bitterness and zap contrasts with this richness. There is depth and fullness, with a more savory and stony finish. Not bad. 2026–35. 93
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche
It was back in 1943 that Drouhin began its alliance with Marquis de Laguiche. There are 7.5 acres (3ha) over three parcels, one of which always gets millerandage. Plump, ripe aroma. An earthy, dense, and rich palate. Plenty of matter and a vigorous finish. 2027–35+. 94
Le Montrachet Grand Cru Marquis de Laguiche
From 5 acres (2.06ha) in the most northerly, Puligny part, over five parcels, the oldest planted in 1961 and the youngest in 1982. Three harvest dates. Gathers intensity and volume across the palate, but the profile here is channeled and deep. The power is discreet and focused, and it flows into a prolonged, silky finish. 2030–40. 98–99
Corton-Charlemagne Propriétés Grand Cru
From a domaine parcel in Les Languettes. “Not a large crop, hit by hail and frost,” says Frédéric. Green pear-skin aroma. Straight strike; focused and mineral. Muscular minerality. There is intensity and cool grip. Good length, to boot. 2027–38. 95–96
Red
Chorey-lès-Beaune
Partly domaine and partly purchased fruit. “The highest elevation,” says Fréderic (for Chorey, which is pretty flat). Fully destemmed, which is an exception for Drouhin. Red-cherry fruit. Light, crunchy tannins. Fresh and juicy. Easy. 2024–26. 83
Volnay
From several parcels, some domaine. Fresh, perfumed, red-fruit aroma. Pure fruit on the mid palate, juicy and plump, with a light crunch to the tannins. A touch of thyme from the whole-bunch. Finely textured. Aromatic finish. 2025–32. 86–87
Beaune Premier Cru Les Cras
“From the lower part of Cras, but the subsoil is very chalky. Champs Pimont opulence, with the structure of Grèves,” says Frédéric. Purchased grapes. Expressive red-fruit aroma. A touch of tarragon and a light, taffeta texture. This has a piquancy and brightness. Neatly contained palate, well-edged. Blends savory saltiness with red fruit, and that fruit is fresh, lucid, and lively. The first to be picked, and clearly they caught just the right moment. Spot-on for this terroir. 2026–32. 92
Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Mouches
Drouhin owns 35 acres (14ha)—more than half—of this flagship vineyard, half of the area in white, half in red, across 35 parcels. It is normally the first and the last to be picked during the harvest. Complex aroma, combining blackberries, a touch of licorice, and red pepper. Smooth sweep into the palate. Nicely layered mid-palate; the tannins are smooth but bring sappy freshness to boost the overall sense of brightness and energy here. Good length. 2027–32. 94
Blagny Premier Cru La Pièce Sous le Bois
Pretty red-fruit aroma. Silky texture, pure, straight, and fluid; skates across the palate. A style I really like. 2026–30. 92
Chambolle-Musigny
From parcels owned or farmed. Floral. Wafting, silk texture. Pure, lucid fruit. Elegant, fine, and light. It has an airiness. Very pretty indeed. 2026–32. 88
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Amoureuses
A domaine wine. Distilled raspberry-fruit aroma. A fluid ripple as this unfurls across the palate. Rich silk, threaded with freshness and energy. Focused and persistent. Gorgeous flow and texture to this wine. Such finesse on the lingering finish. My favorite, together with the Vosne Petits Monts, among the red wines I tasted here. Great typicité. 2027–40. 97
Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
A domaine wine. Super-spicy. Dark and brooding. It’s powerful and concentrated. Muscular, punchy wine. Earthy, licorice, and compact. Vigorous and persistent finish. 2030–40. 96
Musigny Grand Cru
Intense, focused, and very finely textured. It has poise, presence, and finesse. Fine and saline to finish. 98
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
A three-week maceration, with 40% whole-bunch. Rich, ripe, and sensual. Creamy and full-bodied; ripe, sumptuous fruit, yet fresh enough. Some of this is later picked and some earlier, and it finds a natural balance and harmony. Undeniably seductive, with a persistent and sensual finish. 2028–40. 97
Vosne-Romanée
Includes 20% premier cru Les Chaumes and Petit Monts (purchased fruit). An expressive aroma. Rounded palate, which combines an airy feel with fair intensity. It is nicely focused and finely textured, showing some tension and a salty bitterness on the finish. Nicely done. 2026–32. 88
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Petits Monts
A domaine wine. “Light soil, plowed by horses for years, as we can’t access it from the road.” This is Véronique Drouhin’s vineyard. Pure and vibrant aroma. Delicate, silky texture. Lucid, juicy, red-cherry fruit, with crystal-fresh sweetness and intensity; very focused. Fine-boned. Detailed. This has a vibration on the finish. Love this. Top-notch. 2028–40. 96–97
Echézeaux Grand Cru
A domaine wine. Pure, light, and precise. An elegant Echézeaux from En Orveaux, with a fluid, refined, and long finish. 2027–40. 96
LOUIS JADOT
Soft and fruity wines from Jadot.
White
Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre
Quite soft for this climat. A fruit-forward, gentle palate, with tropical notes of pineapple and a suggestion of minerality to finish. 2024–26. 84
Red
Beaune Premier Cru Theurons
A Famille Gagey wine. There’s sweet strawberry on this easy-going, soft palate, with herbal tannin at the end to give it some lift. Accessible and fruity, with a light, crisp minerality to finish. 2025–28. 88
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Baudes
A Famille Gagey wine. A ripely rounded and juicy palate, with bounteous summer fruit, supple tannins, decent substance, and a thread of acidity running throughout. 2027–30. 92–93
Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru En Caradeux Clos de la Croix de Pierre
Héritiers Louis Jadot; part of the original Jadot landholding. Cranberry fruit on the palate, with a sprightly and appetizingly tart ping. Shows a little of the characteristic Pernand edginess, mellowed by the warm vintage. Overall, quite light and accessible for Caradeux, which is typically muscular. 2025–28. 87
BENJAMIN LEROUX
“We feel it is a sunny year, but the terroir is really there,” says Ben Leroux. There are too many of Ben’s wines that I would like to include. He has about 40 cuvées, but here are a few. Many of the wines are négoce, of course, with fruit from good suppliers, as standards are very high here, but Ben also has 20 acres (8ha) of domaine vines, focused on Meursault. Asked about the season, he remarks, “Picking in August is not a big deal for us now.” He has two air-conditioned shipping containers, in which he cools down the fruit harvested after 11am. “The quality of destemming at 13ºC [55ºF] is not the same at 20ºC [68ºF]. The fruit was super-healthy in 2022, so you could play it the way you wanted, but we did not many punch-downs and one remontage a day; so a ‘light’ extraction.” Some reds had just 1g/l malic acid. “It’s a question of balance and feeling.” He made no acid “correction”… and it works. “You have to forget everything you learned at school and go with the balance.” As he points out, “Making reds at 3.3–3.4 pH is a thing at the past. Now it is 3.7.” Ben uses minimal added sulfur, but with meticulous and methodical testing for Brett as the wine ages. “We understand the risks. It’s a new way of following the wine.”
These days he uses more 450-liter casks for the reds and the 228-liter pièces are first “washed” with a fermentation of white. For whites there are now more foudres (approximately nine barrels in volume), as well as 450- and 600-liter casks. White wine made in new pièces is used for topping-up. “We are adapting to higher ripeness and alcohol. Alcohol extracts from the oak and we just don’t like this with Chardonnay.” He uses a number of coopers.
“Reds are not like 2020, which has more concentration. We had cooler nights in 2022. Maybe like the 2002 reds, which tasted well from birth, but the acidity is different. 2002 and 2022 are good in both red and white, although 2002 was occasionally spoiled by cork. I think 2020 whites are better than the reds, but 2022 reds and whites are at the same level.”
White
St-Romain Sous le Château
Silky wine, with wet-stone minerality. Dances light and pure, with savory notes and slightly chalky puff on the finish. 2025–30. 86
Meursault
Mainly from the foot of the slope. Rounded, quite rich and dense, but with some tension. Nutty and rich, with marzipan notes mid-palate, and a rather floral finish. 2026–32. 88
Meursault Blagny Premier Cru La Pièce sous le Bois
“White marl, the third terroir of Meursault,” says Ben. The vines range in age from fairly young, to 70-years-old. Tense, focused, and salty; with straight nervy line, this fizzles sharp and savory. 2026–35. 92
Meursault Blagny Premier Cru La Pièce sous le Bois Vieilles Vignes
Old vines, bottled in magnums. Ben bought his first vines here in 2013, the latter section in 2017, but he has always kept this section separate. He puts 1950 on the back label. There are two barrels. It’s super-intense and focused. Straight and deep but tight and channeled. Laser-sharp, with savory freshness and length. 2027–40. 93
Meursault Premier Cru Genevrières
The larger cuvée (one 350-liter and five 228-liter barrels) is from the Dessous section. A touch of greengage, slightly spicy and ripe. A generously rounded and aromatic palate, which focuses into the finish, which is just lightly salty. He will take this out of barrel now to put it into tank, where it will tighten and focus over the next months. 2027–35. 92
Meursault Premier Cru Genevrières Dessus
This is from the upper part of the climat, but also has different vine material, which gives small berries and more millerandage. White flowers on the nose. Delicate, intense, and precise. Crystal-cut. This is a big step up. Super-fine. Tension and precision. Love it! 2027–40. 96
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Tête du Clos
This parcel is just below La Romanée. Intense and focused. Well-cut edges. It is compact and savory and sappy from the limestone. A cold austerity. Not fruity at all. I like the muscular grip. 2027–40. 95–96
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
From a tiny parcel (0.3876-acre [0.1569ha]), the first vines Ben bought, in 2009. Exotic melon and ginger. Spicy aromatic on the palate, too. But after this rich cloud of aroma and airy volume, the palate has a core that is tight and fresh. The finish is precise, focused, and intense, with a lingering vibration. 2028–40+. 97–98
Red
Bourgogne Côte d’Or
Energetic fruit. Quite powerful for a Bourgogne. Firm tannins and somewhat sumptuous. Generous and juicy. This well-structured wine comes from parcels below Pommard and Meursault and is all destemmed. 2024–27. 84–85
Blagny Premier Cru La Pièce sous le Bois
Finely textured. Pure and bright. Lively elegance. Floral notes on the finish. Refined and delicate. Salty finish. Delightful. 2026–32. 92
Volnay Premier Cru Clos de la Cave des Ducs
The supple texture up-front is followed up by a light crispness, a taffeta note; delicately done. Stretches into quite a mineral finish, pure and precise. Carries the 14% ABV. 2027–35+. 94–95
Volnay Premier Cru Santenots
One third whole-bunch from a parcel next to the camp site. Firm tannins, slightly austere. Vigor and some rigor, too (pH 3.55). Punchy finish. “Santenots should be like this. I like the grip it has.” Slight fennel bitterness to finish. 2027–35+. 94–95
Gevrey-Chambertin Champs-Chenys
From vines on the Morey side of the village, now separated out as a single cuvée (five barrels in 2022). Tightly wound silk. This has tension, purpose, and a slightly austere note. Very promising. 2027–32. 88–89
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Cazetiers
Two thirds whole-bunch. Finely textured, intense, and firm. Concentrated but super-straight and fine-boned. I love the persistence. It has tension and cool minerality. 2028–40. 96
Chambertin Grand Cru
Almost all whole-bunch. Power and presence, but super-discreet. Lovely, long finish. 2029–40+. 98–99
DOMAINE SEGUIN-MANUEL
Thibaut Marion remarks, “The domaine is quite small, so we could harvest at the right moment, picking neither too early nor too ripe. He has 12 acres (5ha) of vines, most more than 50-years-old, which are organically certified and produce 12 wines, as well as buying in fruit, from Chablis, to the Mâconnais. He noticed stress only in the young vines (he has recently planted a part of Les Clous). He finds the whites “maybe like 2015, but 2022 has a combination of ripeness and freshness, so it’s difficult to compare. For reds, we are very careful in these warm vintages not to extract too much; so, lots of remontage and little pigeage.” Thibault uses plenty of whole-bunch; and he does this successfully in Pommard, but astutely chooses to destem the village Petits Epenots, which is from heavier clays. It works with the finer soils in Noizons and Pézerolles. He puts whole bunches on top but does pigeage pretty quickly. He likes François Fréres barrels for both red and white. “The reds are generous, expressed with nice, ripe fruit and floral notes. Well-structured but with ripe tannins, quite powerful. They have potential. Like 2019, but there is more elegance in 2022,” he tells me.
White
Pouilly-Vinzelles Vieilles Vignes
From bought-in organic fruit. A rounded palate, with ripe lemon and nuttiness. Rich marzipan notes well-balanced with fresh acidity. 75% barrel-fermented, with a touch of new oak, and 25% fermented in concrete egg, which, he says, “brings the body and richness to the wine, but 100% would be too much.” 2024–28. 85
Meursault Les Clous
From the Dessus section. Vibrant and keen. Fizzles on the palate. Chalky and high-wired. Neat edges. Energetic, salty finish. Great typicité. 2025–32. 89
Puligny-Montrachet Les Reuchaux
From quite brown soil, only 24 inches (60cm) above rock. Firm and focused, a linear wine with lively lime zest and a fragrant, lime-leaf finish. 2026–32. 88
Santenay Vieilles Vignes
From Sous la Roche: “a steep and stony place.” The grower is in organic conversion. Light citrus aroma. Mineral tension. Tight, nicely focused, with good energy and bite to the finish. Savory. 2024–28. 85
Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Mouches
A fullish, quite broad body, with some richness, but it’s very savory and it carries firmly on a sapid and well-sustained finish. The first white to be harvested. 2026–35. 93
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Glossy aroma and texture from the oak (one new François Frères barrel). It comes from En Charlemagne, on the cool Pernand side, but has some ripe greengage fruits. The line is channeled, tight, focused, and vibrant. I like the lemon pith, combined with chalky, stony notes on the finish. 2027–45+. 95
Red
Beaune Premier Cru Bressandes
From the upper part of the vineyard. 40% whole-bunch. Red-peppercorn aroma. Silky fluidity, delicate and pure. Linear line. Light-bodied, with red fruit and an aromatic finish. Wafts elegantly across the palate, but has precision, too. 2027–35. 93–94
Givry Premier Cru Crémillons
From a parcel on a slight slope, east-facing and rather stony. Crunchy and bright. Quite snappy. Lively red fruit. 10% new oak. Simple but pleasant. 2024–28. 83
Pommard Premier Cru Petits Noizons
From a 1.6-acre (0.65ha) parcel being gradually replanted, so a mix of older and younger vines. One third whole-bunch and 20% new oak. Fresh and herbal aromas. There is a charming feel to this Pommard, with its smooth tannins and nicely ripe fruit, balanced with light freshness and chased up with floral aromatics on the finish. Very engaging. 2026–32. 88
Pommard Premier Cru Pézerolles
From a parcel replanted 11 years ago. Some 60% whole-bunch and 50% new oak. “Very red soil here. Just above Grands Epenots. It is usually the first to ripen.” A sweet basket of summer fruit on the aroma. Succulent and juicy strike. Rounded but not full. Quite sleek and deeply textured—a rich, soft suede texture. And the finish has fresh, herby aromas. Lovely. Another very good Pommard. 2027–35. 93–94
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Cazetiers
Spicy and upright. The oak is a bit dominant for now, as one of the two barrels is new. Strikes the palate with bright energy. Firm tannins. Tight edges; channeled and zesty. Super-keen, straight, and persistent. Shivers. 2028–38. 95
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
All destemmed. Hoovers up the oak. Richly fruit and exuberantly floral aroma. Very expressive. Rich, satin texture. A delightful fluidity, smoothly full and generous, gliding into a persistent finish. Lovely, long, silky finish. 2028–40. 96
Côte de Beaune: Bligny-lès-Beaune
MEURGEY-CROSES
Pierre Meurgey finds the 2022 whites like 2018 “for their accessibility, but they are fresher and not overly exotic.” In red, “I like the energy, and as they have evolved, I am surprised by the intensity.” Pierre likes to fine his whites for a silky texture, and the Mâcon wines were finished and bottled when I tasted. “The ripeness was not extreme in the Mâconnais. Not too rushed for harvest. Less rain in June in the Mâconnais than the Côte de Beaune, but a touch more rain in July and August. Pouilly was hit by drought, maybe a bit blocked, which preserved the sapidity.”
Mâcon Uchizy
Made in stainless-steel tanks. Spicy and floral aromas. Fresh and silky. Ripe but pure. Trim and airy and super-scented on the finish. Definitely pleasing. 2024–26. 84
St-Veran
From the southern part, made mostly in tank, with 20% barrels, among which is a new Damy. “The oak brought the backbone,” remarks Pierre. Peachy, rounded, and juicy. Generous, with its white-peach floral aromatics. It’s seductive and nicely balanced, and just really very attractive. Super-fragrant. What’s not to like? 2024–28. 85
Viré-Clessé Vieilles Vignes
“From Le Mont, on the Clessé side, at the top of the hill, which is cooler, with thinner soil. There was some stress here (the vines shut down), so we waited for it to ripen. There is a portion more east-facing.” 450- and 600-liter casks, but older oak and quite neutral. Pierre likes to stir the lees. “It’s sightly reductive in old wood, which is interesting.” Lightly apricot and just nicely rounded. It’s not a rich Vire-Clessé, and I like the bitter almond-kernel undercut, which provides the structure and sense of freshness. Snappy end to the palate. “It is the terroir,” says Pierre, “this is never on the heavy side.” A good Viré-Clessé. 2024–28. 84–85
Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes
From 65- to 95-year-old vines, “all from Pouilly, spread across the slopes with different soil types.” Fully barrel-fermented, but less than 10% new oak. Pierre used more new oak in the past. Combines light citrus ripeness with a lightly firm structure and a hint of oak. Decent freshness, with an attractive, savory, sappy note on the end. I like the slightly salty finish. 2026–30. 86
Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Cru Bouthières
From a south-facing section of Bouthières, explains Pierre. Made in a new 350-liter Damy barrel and two older 228-liter barrels. A blend of sweet and earthy notes, with orange and spice, probably from the oak. Rich and sunny, underpinned with fresh, juicy succulence. It’s loosely textured but has slapping energy and freshness. 2025–30. 87
Pernard-Vergelesses
A blend from village lieux-dits Les Pins and Les Plantes des Champs et Combottes, in three barrels, one new, “as I couldn’t find just used barrels,” admits Pierre. This is straight, earthy, taut, and savory. A touch of new oak adds a bit of glamour to the finish, which combines well with the salinity. 2025–30. 87
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
From En Charlemagne, on the Pernand-Vergelesses side. It has been fully organic since 2018, when Pierre took over this parcel, and was certified in 2022. Super-tense and fresh. Straight and energetic. Persistent, savory finish. 2027–35. 96
Côte de Beaune: Pommard
DOMAINE DU COMTE ARMAND
Paul Zinetti has to manage the logistics in the domaine’s very compact winery in the center of Pommard. Harvest was just finishing as I arrived to taste the ’22s. He uses a rack and return, keeping some fermenting juice in a small tank in front of each vat—practical, because after a night fermenting, the cap rises perilously high, but the unwanted lees also fall out of the juice and can be left behind when it is returned to the vat. Such small measures have contributed to the texture of the wine here, becoming more refined and elegant over the years that Zinetti has made them. There is not the space for whole-bunch, but he is not a fan in any case. Good thing, too. These are super-stylish and elegantly polished wines as they are. Zinetti says, “2022 is more Burgundian than 2020, which was extreme, and better than 2021. It will be good for long aging—lovely after three or four years, but it has everything for good aging. The acidity, structure, and alcohol are there. It is a complete and balanced vintage. We come back after two extremes to something more classic.”
White
Aligoté
Ripe citrus fruit with lemon pith and fennel bitterness on the finish. 2024–28. 84–85
Red
Auxey-Duresses Largillas
Just so appealing. Fresh and sweet raspberry fruit. Vibrant. Fizzles. Light tannin crunch. 2025–28. 87
Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru
Notes of cumin and licorice. For an Auxey-Duresses, this has inviting richness of tannin, with a light chocolate texture—two thirds come from the southerly exposed slope of Les Bretérins and the balance from Duresses. Zinetti always picks the Auxey at the end of the harvest for the ripe tannins. An excellent example. 2026–30. 89
Volnay
A blend from Les Famines, Robardelle, and Grands Champs. Smooth, velvety palate, plump and rounded, rich in ripe, red fruit, juicy and succulent. What’s not to like? 2026–30+. 88
Pommard Premier Cru Clos des Epéneaux
It is always interesting to taste the five component parts that make up the blend from different parts of this large parcel before tasting the final wine with the correct proportions of each carefully measured out by Zinetti. The young vines give exuberant fruit; the old vines, depth and elegance, and the press wine, well that’s also very good, and provides the structure. Somehow it comes together to make an enchantingly elegant and persistent Pommard. There is more oak than usual (50% as there were insufficient older barrels) but it doesn’t disturb. The nose has spicy forest fruits with a touch of licorice. Silky up-front, smooth, succulent, and generous mid-palate, to a supple, long finish. The texture is exemplary. A sophisticated wine. 2028–35. 96–97
JEAN-MARC BOILLOT
Jean-Marc’s daughter, Lydie Alzingre, likes to harvest Chardonnay early: “We want acidity, not high maturity. She crushes the grapes somewhat, before a long, slow press, adding sulfur at this point. Quite a short débourbage and into barrel for fermentation. Mainly pièces, but some 350-liter barrels, which she began using in 2021 to avoid half-barrels. Damy only. All the whites are bottled in August. The domaine expanded by purchasing vineyards in the Mâconnais in 2015, starting with 12 acres (5ha), now increased to 32 acres (13ha), with a pressing facility in situ. “We were surprised that we had pHs of 3.3. 2022 is a very good terroir vintage. It is like 2009—not too hot.”
Mâcon Chardonnay Le Berceau
Light apricot and delicate perfumed aroma, which carries on the palate the scent of apricot skin. It’s trim, with a light mineral thread and slightly saline, salty. A more restrained style. 2024–26. 84
Mâcon Chardonnay Les Busserettes
Ripe greengage fruit aroma. Rather lively on the attack; the palate is ripe, plump, gregarious, and accessible, finishing with plenty of fresh fruit. 2024–26. 84
Montagny Premier Cru
Ripe apricot aroma, with a generous, easy-going, rounded palate. A touch exotic but sufficiently fresh. Pleasant. 2024–26. 83
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Combettes
Warm-stone aroma. Compactly layered and dense. Ripeness is balanced with pithy freshness and bitterness. It grips the finish. Colder and more austere at the end. An enticing juxtaposition of hot and cold on this wine. 2027–40. 94–95
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Referts
Succulent aroma. Super-juicy, full-bodied palate. Broad and generous, with an earthy, savory undertow, which carries the well-sustained finish. Good typicité and vigor. 2027–35. 93
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru La Truffière
Wildflower honey and citrus on the aroma. Richness with focus. Good intensity and a vibrancy to the lovely, stretched, sweet-citrus finish. Elegant. “With climate change, you don’t need to wait five or six years for Truffière, which was not the case before. But we have the acidity, so we can keep it.” 2027–35. 93
DOMAINE COSTE-CAUMARTIN
Benoît Sordet finds the 2022 “quite balanced and structured, not too much acidity and soft tannins. Like 2020, but there was more acidity in 2020; so it is most like 2019. The terroir character is present. More so than those other vintages.”
Whites start in tank and Benoît adds the BIVB yeast CY3079. There is no added sulfur pre-malolactic for the whites. Total acidity for the whites is 80–90; for the reds, 60–70. Not much new oak, just 5–10%. In 2021, Sordet started a small négoce side, buying fruit from a producer in Beaune to make Vignes Franches and Les Grèves. The reds are all destemmed. “I used less extraction than in 2020. 2020 had more acidity, so we could extract more tannins to balance it. 2022 is more on the fruit and elegance.” He has a light touch with extraction.
White
St-Romain Le Clos du Château (Monopole)
From a large parcel directly below the château, which the family owns: 4 acres (1.61ha) at 1,360ft (415m), southeast-facing, with a very limestone soil and only (20cm) of topsoil. Ten months in barrel, with 5% new oak. Succulent apricot fruit on the attack, ripe and soft, with fennel notes to finish. Tingles nicely at the end. A ripe St-Romain that is very inviting. 2024–26. 86
Beaune Premier Cru Chouacheux
A part of this vineyard, which lies toward the bottom of the slope, where there is plenty of clay, on the Pommard side of the appellation, is planted to Chardonnay (12 years) and an old part to Pinot Noir (60 years). Mandarin and buttery aroma. Ripe lime fruit on the front-palate, with a rounded middle and a pithy finish. 2024–28. 88
Red
Beaune Premier Cru Les Grèves
Red-fruit and floral aroma. Light-bodied and quite delicate. Aromatically expressive. Light, crisp tannins, just slightly herbal, but nicely so, and the finish is fresh and slightly savory. It is certainly the more intense of the Beaune premier cru wines here. 2026–30+. 91
Pommard Le Clos des Boucherottes (Monopole)
A monopole of 4.4 acres (1.81ha), at an altitude of only 835ft (255m). 35-year-old vines. It is in slope wash-down from the hill, but Sordet says there is a very rocky part of this monopole, due to a fault in the mother rock. Fine perfume and a refined Pommard palate. Light and silky textured, threaded with a light line of acidity. Neatly woven wine, with delicious red fruit and a nicely sustained finish. Sordet’s light touch comes together with the terroir to make an elegant Pommard. 2027–32. 93
Pommard La Rue au Porc
Pommard from a lieu-dit with more clay by the RN74. Perfumed with cherry notes and white flowers. Rather a delicate, floral Pommard, with light tannins, a slight, herby twang, and crunch on the finish, which brings attractive freshness. Pretty. 2025–28. 86
Pommard Les Vignots
In the combe on the north side of the village, near the forest, at an altitude of 1,115ft (340m). Licorice, white pepper, and orange zest. Silky tannins. Aromatically very ripe and spicy, and it’s quite airy. Underpinned with freshness and a lightly herbal bite to finish. 2025–29. 86–87
Pommard Premier Cru Fremiers
Sweet blueberry fruit, a slightly jammy aroma. It’s full of fruit on the attack. Good concentration and succulence. Has an appealingly, just slightly, rustic quality, and is fresh, spicy, and gamey to finish. 2027–32. 92
Côte de Beaune: Volnay
DOMAINE DU MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE
“For sure, biodynamics help us to have fresh wine. The plant has more resilience and can grow in very difficult conditions with more immunity, and the result is more dynamic,” remarks François Duvivier who oversees both the vineyards and the cellar.
As ever, the wines here are destemmed. The juice is cooled to 59–63ºF (15–17ºC). Remontage once or twice a day for around 17 to 18 days. There are three rackings here. The first is after malolactic (in July), when the barrels are blended in tank and returned to barrel. A second racking to vat takes place any time from December to March, and a last racking vat to vat, so they rarely need to filter. “The pH is 3.5 to 3.6, yet the vintage has kept energy,” says Duvivier. “There is fluidity and vibration in the vintage, and we are very happy to have this. Another winter in barrel will give them even more direction.”
“Like 2017, because it was delicate. 2018 gave more full-bodied wines. There is also some comparison with 2007. It is a fluid and ripe vintage, but not too ripe. It is vibrant, with discreet tannins, and shows the terroir very well.”
“Maybe, this year, Cailleret is my favorite,” says Duvivier. “Cailleret has no tannin in 2022, you have only the vibration. I am looking for fluidity and energy in wine. When you drink this wine, you feel in harmony. Concentrated wine is boring.”
Making a comparison with an older vintage, Duvivier muses: “2002 had more acid and more tannins. It’s more like 2000, but with more concentration. It is richer than this, though. A little like the 1997.”
These are exquisite Volnays: fine, delicate, energetic, and precise.
Meursault Premier Cru Santenots
“We used low sulfites—only 1g at débourbage. We racked at the end of August into stainless steel and then we waited to February or March. If we need to fine, we only use bentonite. Light filtration. With this vinification, we have more freshness, freedom, and energy in the wine.” 350-liter Damy barrels, with 15% new. Marzipan-rich aroma. Full-bodied, broad palate, with a nutty and savory richness, chased up with cool minerality and bite. I like the tension on the finish. 2027–35. 93
Red
Volnay Premier Cru
Pitures and Mitans. Perfumed red fruit with a silky, light and fluid palate woven with a bright line freshness. Lithe. 2026–35. 93
Volnay Premier Cru Caillerets
“Harvested the first day—always!” Pure summer-fruit perfume, which is dewy fresh. The palate is so delicate and finely textured. Wafting, gossamer tannins. Threaded with a fine, talcy, chalk line. Diaphanous yet precise and detailed. Absolutely spot-on. The best Caillerets of the vintage for me. 2027–35. 97
Volnay Premier Cru Champans
Ripe fruit, generous and juicy. The sweetness is cut with lively freshness, and it carries on a prolonged and gregarious finish. 2027–40. 95
Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Angles
Riper and more succulent. Slightly exotic. Open-textured, with an airy, crochet texture and purple perfume to finish. 2026–35. 92–93
Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Ducs
Rich rose-petal aroma. Attacks the palate. Density and intensity with austerity. Punchy, compact, and savory. White marl with a high level of limestone gives the underscoring grip. Impressive. 2027–40. 96–97
Volnay Premier Cru Fremiets
Forest fruit. Sweet strike. Darker, wilder feel, with a touch of licorice and an attractive bitter caraway note. A light and crisp grip. Clipped edges. I like the energy. Graphite on the finish. 2027–35. 94
Volnay Premier Cru Taillepieds
Intense and firm. Presence and intention. Fine, steely core. Straight, vital, and very persistent. 2027–40. 95
DOMAINE FRANÇOIS BUFFET
Marc-Olivier Buffet says, “2022 is like 2020, with a bit more freshness. You can drink the wine from two years after bottling, or at 5 to 10 years. So, early or wait.” He clearly pursues a riper style. The fruit is rich and the wines range from 13.5% to 14.5%. “I prefer it when the wines are smooth. The yields are not enormous in 2022, and this helps. I don’t like too much tannin.” He uses 30% of whole-bunch on selected climats, placing the whole bunches on top of the cuve and starting off with a pigeage before moving to remontage after a few days. He likes Cavin and Cadus barrels.
Pommard
A savory first impression and licorice on the mid-palate. Here, rich tannin is balanced with quantity of dark fruit. A blend from Petite and Grand Combe, at the bottom of the valley. A richer, riper, traditional, so quite gutsy, style of Pommard. 2026–28. 86
Pommard Premier Cru Les Poutures
The purest aroma among the wines here. Red fruit and flowers. Juicy and ripe, flexing light, smooth muscle; generous, even heady, ripeness, is balanced by an attractive lift of culinary herbs on the finish. 2026–32. 91
Volnay Premier Cru Carelle sous la Chapelle
Ripe cherry-fruit aroma. Creamy tannins. A lightly plump, soft summer-fruit palate, with just-balanced freshness and a smooth finish. 2026–32. 90
Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Chênes
Floral lift. This is more sophisticated. I like the tension, energy, and the finer textured tannin. Straighter line. A cool, salty crispness to the finish. 2026–32. 91
Volnay Premier Cru Clos de la Rougeotte (Monopole)
From a 1.2-acre (0.5ha) monopole on a flatter part than Fremiets. “I can’t explain why, but it doesn’t have the harder profile of Fremiets,” says Buffet. Forest-fruit aroma and sweet strike. Supple texture, quite luscious fruit, and a light freshness on the finish. 2026–30. 88
DOMAINE CLOS DE LA CHAPELLE
Coralie Allexant-Manière manages the domaine, while Mark O’Connell comes over from the US to oversee the winemaking.
Beaune Premier Cru Les Reversées
An interesting place for Chardonnay. There were only two producers of white Reversées, but Paul Pernot has just replaced his Pinot with Chardonnay. Fermented in new 600-liter François Frères with the balance, just under half, in stainless-steel tank. It has gravelly bite and tension. Punchy, savory character. Grippy. Broad on the palate, but not fruity. This is savory and maybe a touch oaky, but time will mellow. 2025–32. 91–92
Meursault Premier Cru Charmes
Sixty-year-old vines. Straight, pure, and mineral. Vibrant and intense, with a firm sense of freshness. Salty and vibrant to finish. 2026–35. 93
Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Sous Frétille
Easterly exposition. Silky and bright, cool and zesty. High-energy. Lime-like, straight and pithy. Bright, savory finish. Good value for the quality. 2025–32. 92
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
From 0.75 acres (0.31ha) in En Charlemagne, part of the old Laleur-Piot estate, from mid-slope to the forest line, and southwest to south in exposure. From 2010, biodynamic farming, but certified organic, as they do not conform on all counts. Rémond and Radoux coopers are surprising – Rémond is usually for reds. Good tension, precision, and focus. Straight, well-edged, and mineral. Carries on the finish. Edgy and long. Shivers. Good terroir typicité. 2028–35+. 96
Red
Pommard Premier Cru Cru Chanlins
Eighty-year-old vines on a steep limestone slope. Despite being picked on August 29, this is super-ripe, so quite sweet and exotically aromatic. But it retains its keen, linear palate and nervy line. It’s sharply focused and races to a saline finish. 2027–35. 92–93
Volnay Premier Cru Taillepieds Vieilles Vignes
From old vines in the upper part of the vineyard. Strikes the palate with energy. Marked with tension and brightness. Ripe fruit combines with a chilly cold impression. Vibrant and intense. Straight and clean, well-cut. Good potential. 2027–35+. 93–94
“We have good balance, with purity in the wine,” says Frédéric Lafarge. “We see the capacity of the vine to adapt. Biodynamics has helped. No stress in the vineyards. We use chamomile during the canicule and this helps the vines resist the heat.” Whites are racked in August and put partly in oak and partly in concrete for the Aligoté, the other whites back into barrel for another winter. pH 3.33 for the whites. “We have good TA and the taste of acidity.” Frédéric likes to rack the reds after a year, and when I tasted they had recently been racked and returned (barrels blended) to oak, with a light sulfur addition. Clos du Château des Ducs is hand-destemmed. Frédéric considers it “a vintage with lovely balance and good potential. For me, I think the premiers crus will be good from ten years, but before this there is much pleasure with the balance of the vintage.” Wines with marked vivacity and freshness. Everything needs time.
Bourgogne Aligoté Raisins Dorés
Fresh and zesty. Energetic. Concentrated fruit, with attractive bitterness. Lemon and pithy. Attacks the finish. Top-notch Aligoté. 2026–32+. 87
Meursault Vendanges Sélectionnées
Grip and structure. Sapidity and tension. Compact and savory, with an assertive finish. 2027–35+. 90
Beaune Premier Cru Les Aigrots
Vertical press. “Good quality, but takes two people a whole day to press it.” This, too, has good tension and grip. Ripe citrus fruit with excellent concentration. Fresh burst of acidity, sharp-stone minerality, and energy on the finish. 2028–36. 94
Red
Bourgogne Passetoutgrains Anthologie
From 90-year-old vines, bottled separately in 2018, and then again in 2020 in magnums, in homage to Michel Lafarge, who passed away that year. Two 500-liter barrels, one new. From the regional vineyard below the village section of Lurets, from the top of the parcel, with the oldest vines. Density and richness combine with super-freshness and body. This has an extra intensity and sweetness, coupled with really lively acidity, and even more crackle and crispness and tannic snap to finish. 2027–38+. 88
Bourgogne Passetoutgrains L’Exceptional
Splashing fruit and freshness, with a light crunch of tannin. High energy and vibrance. Blue and red fruits are expressive: 50/50 Gamay and Pinot are co-planted and ripen at the same time. Picked at the end of harvest. “Just three or four punch-downs, as it’s very easy to extract from this.” 2027–35. 85
Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Aigrots
From the 10-acre (4ha) Clos, of which Lafarge owns one quarter. The Chardonnay is at the top, on more stony soil, but the Pinot, beneath, is also on a light, albeit less stony soil. Light, slim, and vibrant, with zesty orange skin, pithy piquancy, and crunchy tannins. 2028–35+. 92
Beaune Premier Cru Grèves
From 101-year-old vines. The texture is velvety and the fruit deep. A sumptuous, layered, and elegant Grèves, with an undertow of freshness and such focus on the well-sustained and tingling finish. From a one-acre (0.4ha) parcel above and north of Bouchard’s Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus. 2028–40. 94
Volnay Vendanges Sélectionnées
From four parcels, all just below the premiers crus. Rich and intense, with concentration of sweet fruit and supercharged with energy and freshness. You would think this was a blend of fruit from the top of the village and from below, with this supercharged combo of concentration and freshness. 2027–38. 90
Volnay Premier Cru Caillerets
Frédéric picked the Clos du Château des Ducs, then went immediately to harvest Caillerets the same day. It is super-aromatic and delicate, threaded through with a glimmering mineral line. Pure and scented palate. Gauzy texture. Gossamer-fine and floral to finish. 2028–38. 95
Volnay Premier Cru Clos du Château des Ducs
Distilled rose-petal aroma. Sumptuous and rich up-front, luscious mid-palate, flows on a river of satin richness, underscored with such freshness. The finish is excellent. Great intensity and length. 2028–40+. 96
Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Chênes
I like the cold austerity and grip. Straight, layered, and compact. Vigor and intensity. Assertive and cool and persistent, with a cold-stone finish. Lovely potential for aging here. 2029–40+. 96
Volnay Premier Cru Mitans
Rich and juicy. Full, with very nicely ripe and accessible fruit and suede-soft tannins. Alluring. 2027–32. 93
Volnay Premier Cru Pitures
When Frédéric says, “Let’s move to the old cellar,” he means moving from the 17th-century cellar, to the lower, 13th-century cellar, where the Volnay Premiers Crus are aged. Pitures has been bottled in magnum since 2015. Few producers make Pitures separately (at Marquis d’Angerville it’s blended with the more accommodating Mitans), but this climat is a beneficiary of climate change, and these days it shows a less severe and fruitier persona. Nevertheless, it has a whiplash of austerity; linear palate, with salty minerality. Racy and tight, with a salty clip and edgy restraint. 2028–35. 94–95
