2022 Burgundy: Harmony born of an easy season
2022 Burgundy: A guide to the villages and vineyards
2022 Burgundy: A delightful Chablis vintage
DOMAINE JEAN-MARC BROCARD (PRÉHY)
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The largest landowner in Chablis, with 500 acres (200ha), Brocard buys in some fruit to produce approximately 2.5 million bottles, of which 1.5 million is Petit Chablis. Some of the domaine is organic. Since 1997, there has been a steady conversion of parcels to biodynamics, with Demeter certification. These are bottled under Julien Brocard’s colored labels. “The 2022 is a combination of 2019 for ripe style and 2020 for the freshness,” say Julien Brocard.
Chablis Sainte Claire
The main village cuvée: 300,000 bottles, made from the southeast-facing slope in Préhy, planted in the 1970s and ’80s. For Chablis, this is a very large cuvée. Richly citrus and generously textured, with ripe minerality running through the palate. 2023–27. 85
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Chablis Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire
Jean-Marc Brocard bought this 7.5-acre (3ha) parcel when he arrived from St-Bris, planted it in the 1960s, and expanded from there. A level up in intensity, this has an earthier, darker minerality and greater length. 2025–30. 85–86
Chablis Premier Cru Butteaux
From a thin topsoil, only 12 inches (30cm) deep. Oakier than the Vau de Vey, due to the Stockinger foudres. It’s zesty and energetic. Straighter and more concentrated than the Montmains at this address, with a bit more focus and plenty of sapidity. 2025–30. 88
Chablis Premier Cru Vau de Vey
Fennel aroma. Zesty and zippy attack. Straight, clipped, and energetic, this has a peppercorn note and combines anise with light minerals to finish. 2025–30. 87
JULIEN BROCARD (PRÉHY)
This biodynamic range was launched in 2012, although Brocard has labeled the Chablis as a biodynamic wine since 2002. Matured in foudres from Rousseau and Taransaud. The freshness and vibrancy of these wines is impressive, although Brocard says the analysis of acidity and pH is the same as for wines from the regular farming.
Boissonneuse Chablis
From a parcel in Préhy, with no neighbors, which is why Brocard chose this place to start biodynamics. Certified in 1997. Super-vibrant attack. Zesty, fresh, and piquant. Energetic finish. 2024–32. 86
Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Léchet
From a south-facing parcel, Brocard say they have to catch this at the beginning of the harvest. Converted to biodynamics in 2008. Singing, fresh, and citrusy. Impressively energetic. 2025–35. 89–90
Chablis Premier Cru Vau de Vey
Slicing citrus, slim and trim; pure and tense. A high-wired palate. Just a delight. It shivers. 2025–35. 88
Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
The last parcel to be converted. Certified in 2012. Richly aromatic, with a touch of ripe apricot; juicy attack to a generous, concentrated, and spicy palate. Intense. It focuses to a persistent and glossily mineral finish. Lovely. 2027–35+. 94
DAMPT (MILLY)
The Dampt family in Milly have most of their vineyards on the slopes of Côte de Léchet and Vaillons. Daniel passed the reins to Vincent and Sébastien, who make the Daniel Dampt wines together, while producing separate labels from their own vines.
The oldest vineyards still in production were planted in the late-1950s by their grandfather in Les Lys, which is part of Vaillons. There are about 100 acres (40ha) in the family, with the brothers each holding about 22 acres (9ha). They machine-harvest everything and, with the exception of two cuvées, all the wine is made in stainless steel. They don’t have temperature-control for débourbage, but cool the must once it’s been moved to the tank for fermentation with cultured yeast. Some premiers crus had just been bottled when I tasted in June. All the Dampt family wines will be under Diam henceforth.
Petit Chablis
From 15 acres (6ha) in Fleys on Portlandian soil divided between the three domaines. Young vines of just six and 15years, planted by Daniel, as the estate didn’t have any Petit Chablis. Slim and fruity, with citrus and cucumber juiciness. It is light and bright. 2023–27. 84–85
Chablis
From a blend of different parcels, largely around Milly, including a good proportion from the village part of the cool Vau de Vey and a warm village parcel at the bottom of Côte de Léchet. Ripe lime aroma to a generously fruity, kumquat palate. Certainly some richness, but the finish is tangy fresh. 2023–27. 85–86
Chablis Premier Cru Beauroy
From a well-exposed site, picked on the first day of the harvest. Succulent aroma to a rounded palate. Yes, it’s a touch opulent, and certainly charming and approachable, but it’s not heavy and is well-balanced, with sufficient freshness. 2024–30. 87
Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Léchet
Vincent Dampt remarks, “A large block, 30- to 40-year old vines, on the western end of this southeast-facing slope, which catches the morning sun. It is a good representation, as we have a top-to-bottom block. More clay on this side. Not as much as Les Lys, but a good combination of limestone and clay.” Really juicy lemon, concentrated, ripe, and lemon-curd creamy. This is cut with a firm and cool strike of minerality through the palate, to a wet-stone finish. Assertive. 2026–35. 90
Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume
Mainly west-facing Fourchaume, with just a touch of Vaupulent. Creamy textured, ample body, but also showing some complex layering of ripe fruit with acidity and sapidity. Dark, smoky, graphite minerality and the finish is assured. 2026–35. 90–91
Chablis Premier Cru Les Lys
Planted in 1958/59. Super citrus, slices into the palate. It’s concentrated, but with clean-cut edges and marked tension. Straight and compact. Pithy, with caraway and kernel bitterness on the finish. Racy. Love it. 2026–35. 90
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
This is 50% Les Lys, 25% Sécher (“no soil, just rocks, and we get very few grapes”), and 25% Chatains, all vinified together. This is floral, with white rose petal and spices. A light sheen to the texture. Delicate, pure, and threaded, with a glistening line of salinity. Ocean breeze to finish. Delightful. 2025–32. 88
DOMAINE SÉBASTIEN DAMPT (MILLY)
All wines are fermented in stainless steel, except Les Beugnons, a lieu-dit in Vaillons made in concrete egg. In fact, the wine labeled Vaillons is also from Beugnons, but made in stainless steel. The wine in stainless steel tasted more austere, while the concrete egg, which gives a light micro-oxygenation and keeps the lees in suspension, is more integrated and a little fuller,playing to the rounder style of Vaillons in a warmer vintage. But the minerality comes through on the finish on both wines, as you would hope. Sébastien finds 2022 most like 2019. “Low production and good maturity, with less acidity.” He has used Diam since 2014.
Petit Chablis
Sébastien previously made two cuvées, but with the low production in 2021, he blended… and he prefers the blend. Fleys is more fruity, Milly more mineral. It is light and elegant; sherbet-fresh, with a saline finish. What a pretty Petit Chablis. 2023–28. 84
Chablis
From five parcels, all around Milly, including 70% from the parcel of Vieille Voye. The vineyards average 40 years old,and most was planted by Sébastien’s grandfather and great-grandfather. Fennel-seed aroma, with anise and dill on the palate. It is vibrant and edgy, with a fresh, salty cut and a lightly bitter strike. Stylish village wine. 2024–30+. 86–87
Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Léchet
From a 50-year-old parcel. Made in stainless steel. Floral: honeysuckle and wild flowers. Linear, neatly edged, energetic,and oyster-shell on the finish. Clipped, lightly austere and steely. 2027–35. 90
Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaillons
From a large block of Vaillons Beugnons dating to 1959, from which the Dampts are now making their massal selection. “Well-exposed vines, with tiny, concentrated grapes, yet always has acidity—so, it’s good plant material.” Lightly peachy and floral, it’s slightly plump but also firmly mineral. Super-sappy and has good tension. 2026–??. 88–89
VINCENT DAMPT (MILLY)
Vincent Dampt joined the family estate in Milly in 2002 and started his estate the following year. He says he likes to make expressive wines. He describes 2022 as “fresh for a warm vintage. We have achieved good balance. The dry extract that gives the balance.” He finds it comparable with 2018 and 2020, but with more extract and matter.
Chablis
White-floral aroma. Dances lightly across the palate. A silky ribbon woven with delicate freshness, and a note of fennel and ozone to finish. 2023–28. 85
Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Léchet
Half is from old vines planted in 1973, which have pronounced millerandage every year. The rest were planted only four years ago. Enchanting orange-blossom aroma and scented white peach on the palate. A fragrant and fine Léchet. After the airy palate comes a cool sliver of minerality and soft salt to finish. Refined. 2025–35. 89
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
An airy Vaillons, not as intense as Sébastien’s, but very delicate and has much charm. Lovely job with younger vines. 2023–28. 86
DOMAINE VINCENT DAUVISSAT (CHABLIS)
Dauvissat finds 2022 most like “2002 and 1992: 2002 for the sunshine with freshness, although less acidity.” There is energy and precision; intensity with delicacy. And a certain sensibility to Vincent Dauvissat’s wine.
Petit Chablis
From three parcels of around 30 years old, above Les Clos, on the plateau behind the wood. Gunflint aroma. Delicate, slim, intense, and nervy. It pings with salinity to finish. Delightful Petit Chablis. 2025–35. 86
Chablis
Vines are on the opposite slope to Les Forêt, facing northwest; some above Troêmes and some on the Right Bank behind Les Clos, overlooking Fyé. Warm-stone aroma to a wet-stone palate, which skates energetically. It has a lively, cold cut through the lightly golden, peachy fruit. A refined Chablis. 2026–35. 87
Chablis Premier Cru La Forêt
From 10 acres (4ha) of La Forêt in seven parcels, which Dauvissat describes as complex argile (clay), some of it quite deep. Old vines here. Compact aroma. It’s earthy on the strike, but juicy with it. Deep, generous, and savory, with salty acidity and persistence. 2027–35+. 90
Chablis Premier Cru Séchet
Almond and white chalky aroma, with a hint of lemon balm. Straight, clean-cut edges. Chalky. Bright and lime zesty. Racy energy, with a bitter pithiness to finish. 2026–35+. 90
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
Dauvissat has 3.5 acres (1.4ha) of premier cru Vaillons, with a parcel each in Vaillons, Chatains, and Beugnons. Fruity on the aroma, a touch of yellow peach to a rounded, ample palate, with slippery, glassy smooth minerals and spicy, apricot perfume to finish. 2026–35+. 90
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
From 4.2 acres (1.7ha) planted with 48-year-old vines. Very deep (2m [7ft]) clay topsoil, and then onto stone. Rich,honeyed aroma, with a whiff of warm stone and a touch of thyme flower and bay leaf. Volume, depth, and density; both rich and spankingly fresh. Powerful, structural wine, with so much energy on the finish. 2030–40. 96
Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
Gloriously sunny aroma, sweet, honeyed, fragrant, floral, with just a hint of stone. Sumptuous, satin-ribbon palate, intense and deep, yet restrained. Impressive finish. Best 2022 Preuses I tasted. 2030–40+. 96
DOMAINE JEAN-PAUL & BENOÎT DROIN (CHABLIS)
“Fresh and fruity. It’s very easy to drink early. A pleasurable vintage, but it will age. Not too compact. Not classic, like 2014 or 2017, but it will always show well. It’s between 2017 and 2020 in style; more fruity than 2017, but less salty and mineral,” remarks Benoît Droin.
Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Léchet
Ripe citrus aroma, with some elderflower. Smells ripe, and the attack is rich for Léchet. It has lemon curd and a light gloss to the texture, but is cut through with a tight line of acidity. Good energy and zestiness on the finish. Almost a warm, saline, cucumber feel. 2024–30+. 88
Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre
Density and earthiness. Punchy. Grippy. Layered. It’s well-sustained, with a smoky-silex finish. Flexes some muscle. 2025–35. 92
Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaillons
Some 25% oak, only a touch new. Slightly spicy, exotic floral aroma. The oak works well, providing a lightly sumptuous coating and freshness. Quite elegant, with a fragrant finish. 2024–32. 87–88
Chablis Premier Cru Vaucoupin
Aged in stainless steel. Citrus-bright cut on the attack. The mid-palate has a sweet/sherbet contrast. Cool minerality combines with riper litchee notes, but the shape is straight. The finish is seashell and savory. 2025–30+. 89
Chablis Premier Cru Vaulorent
Some 25% oak. Good tension. Edgy. This is neatly compact and has an energetic line. I like the cut and thrust and vibrancy on the finish. 2025–35. 90
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
Exactly the same élevage as Vaudésir, but much more reserved and substantial. It is chunky, broad, and more roughly hewn, with savory, granite grip and it punches on the finish. 2027–38. 94–95
Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir
Rich floral aroma, with some quality oak, which it absorbs well. Ripe and succulent upfront. A richly streamlined palate, quite refined, flows to a long, glistening, wet-stone finish. 2026–35+. 94
DOMAINE GÉRARD DUPLESSIS (CHABLIS)
The domaine was founded in 1895 and now extends to 25 acres (10ha). Fifth-generation Leon changed the domaine to organics, certified in 2014. All hand-picked. The premiers and grands crus are aged in a combination of large sandstone amphora and 400-liter oak, 10% new. “Balanced acidy and alcohol for a vintage of this era. The acidity is lower than years ago. It is like 2020.”
Petit Chablis
Light, bright, and rather enticing. Slightly herbal notes. Vibrant. 2023–26. 83
Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume
Some in ceramic and a smaller part in 400-liter barrels. I found the oak didn’t work with the Mont de Milieu—just too caramel—but it is very good here. Rich golden, with a hint of papaya. Generous, rounded, but nicely fresh, with an ozone note to finish. 2025–32. 89
Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre
The amphora-aged part has tension and intention, but the part in Damy oak also works a treat. Combined, the wine is just slightly seductive upfront. Vigorous, dense, and compact on the mid-palate, with glossy minerals and a long and savory, miso finish. Lively persistence. From Pied d’Aloup—not the best bit of this climat, but it shows rather well in 2022. 2026–32. 90
Chablis Premier Cru Montmains
Ripe yuzu, citrusy aroma. Silky and pure, it’s run through with plenty of freshness and energy. Smoky silex on the finish. 2025–32. 87
DOMAINE WILLIAM FÈVRE (CHABLIS)
Didier Séguier commented, “Very precise and elegant wine, because there was no disease. On the sorting table, we had perfect berries. I compare it with a warm vintage, so maybe 2006, 2009, or 2015.”
Chablis Premier Cru Beauroy
Greengage, with a touch of honey aroma. Succulent, with baked apple-crumble flavors. Honeyed, buttery, this has plenty of ripeness, with a whisper of vanilla from the older oak on the finish, just 20% and none new. A good example. You have to catch this terroir early—and they have. 2024–28. 86
Chablis Premier Cru Les Lys
The 50-year-old vines of Les Lys are vinified separately from the rest of Vaillons. Good, firm structure. Denser and punchier than the Vaillons, with a sharper slice of acidity and mineral grip. Plenty of tension. Should age well. Tip-top. 2026–35. 89
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
Mainly from Vaillons, with some other lieux-dits. Fèvre always starts the harvest here, and in 2022 this was especially important. Honeysuckle florals and a lightly glossy and rounded palate. Underscored with plenty of freshness, and the finish is crisp and chalky. 2025–30. 88
Chablis Premier Cru Vaulorent
Aniseed and almonds; it’s intense, rich, and quite golden, with ripe pear up-front, but it straightens to a supple, saline finish. Smooth, long, and precise. Eye-catching. 2026–30+. 91–92
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros
Southwest-facing but really quite flat. Fèvre has 10 acres (4ha), planted in the 1950 and ’60s. Quite exotic and sumptuous on the nose. “This is the grand cru where we have most improved the quality over the past 20 years,” says Séguier. Candied fruit and concentration on the palate. It comes through with a good level of acidity and mineral grip. Quite surprisingly fresh and vigorous. A good example. 2025–30+. 92–93
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte de Bouguerots
From 5 acres (2ha), south-facing, on a 45 degree slope right by the river. Early maturity. Not much topsoil here. Immediately powerful, dense, and concentrated. It’s a hefty Chablis. Weight and concentration, but note it’s just shy of 13% ABV. No lack of acidity. Compact. One to age. 2027–40. 93–94
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
From 10 acres (4ha) at the top of the slope, 50% planted in the 1940s and ’50s. Pure, intense, and concentrated, but super-streamlined. Freshness, intention, and length. A step up. Focus and precision. Effortless quality. 2027–40. 95
Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
With 6 acres (2.5ha), Fèvre is the largest producer of Preuses. It has large parcels on both sides of the hill. Concentrated, intense, and sumptuous, with a satin-glossy, saline quality. Phew, it’s pretty rich, and yet it’s contained and carries on a rather beautiful ribbon of soft salt. Very persistent. 2026–35. 94–95
DOMAINE LAROCHE (CHABLIS)
“A fresh and gourmand vintage,” says winemaker Stéphane Barras. “It is between 2014 and 2017. The style of our wine depends on the date of the harvest, and while 2018 and 2020 were picked at a similar time, the style of 2022 is more like 2014.” The premiers crus are largely fermented in oak of different sizes, from pièces, to 600-liter barrels, and the grands crus entirely in oak, but never more than 10% new. Laroche is a large producer, with 2.5 million bottles. They own 222 acres (90ha) in Chablis and make some négoce wine at entry level. These are all domaine wines.
Chablis Vieille Voye
Vines from 16.5 acres (6.7ha), made in foudres of 55hl; 6,000 bottles from a single parcel under Les Lys, so a north-facing slope. Some goes into their rather good Saint Martin blend. Elderflower aroma, with a hint of anise. Citrusy leap onto the palate. It’s pithy, zesty, and straight, with a white, salty note. Zips into the finish. What a good village wine. Yum. 2024–27. 86
Chablis Premier Cru Les Fourchaume L’Homme Mort
This is a selection of 1,600 bottles. Deeper, richer, and spicier than Fourchaume on the nose, and the palate is denser and broader. Certainly some punch and muscle. Drives home on the finish. 2027–35+. 92
Chablis Premier Cru Les Fourchaume Vieilles Vignes
Mainly from L’Homme Mort, red clay with some limestone, on a west and sunny exposure. From 70-year-old vines. It includes a smidgen of Clos de Fontenay. 16,000 bottles. Seductive attack, rich upfront, but fresh and energetic, with a surprisingly straight palate. I like the fact that it’s slightly edgy for this terroir. 2026–35. 90
Chablis Premier Cru Léchet
From a sunny 2.5-acre (1ha) parcel nearest to Chablis. A small production for Laroche, of 1,500 bottles from two 600-liter barrels. They had to pick at the beginning of the harvest. Young vines. Light, with a hint of cantaloup melon and wildflowers. It has a quite delicate, light-bodied palate. Pure, with a light, crystaline finish. Not very intense, but stylish. 2025–30. 87
Chablis Premier Cru Vau de Vey
East-facing, and a north wind goes through this closed valley. From 25 acres (10ha) in one block, planted at the end of the 1970s. The maturity in this valley is late, since the vines see the sun only in the morning. Picked at the end of harvest. Stainless steel and 25% pièces. Grapefruit ping on the attack. Fizzles across the straight and vibrant palate to a bright and sappy, chalky finish. 2024–30. 88
Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchot
A big cuvée of 20,000 bottles, as Laroche has acres (4.5ha) of Blanchot, which they are slowly replanting, in 2013 and 2016. Delicately floral and citrus, with a wafting, airy aroma. It’s elegant, pure, and shimmers; even shivers on the salty, ocean-spray finish. Lovely, precise finish. Good typicité. (La Réserve de L’Obédience is a special cuvée assembled on the basis of a blind tasting—a mere 3,000 bottles—which tastes like a distillation of this wine.) 2027–38+. 93
Chablis Grand Cru Les Bouguerots
Shallow soil, on a steep and hot site by the road. Matured in 600-liter oak barrels and 400-liter acacia barrels. Warm gravel aroma. Attack has a slug of mocha. Broad and savory, with burly grip. This is slightly austere. Savory. Shoulders. I like the phenolic bite on the finish. Not refined. Gutsy but long. 2027–35+. 93
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
Gorgeous and intense aroma. Very complete and balanced. Seductive yet restrained. Rich yet precise. Fab finish. Delivers. 2028–40. 95
DOMAINE LONG-DEPAQUIT (CHABLIS)
Louis Gimonnet arrived from Champagne to be winemaker in 2020, but his first full vintage was 2021. He is making changes at Long-Depaquit, and his determination to increase the quality of this domaine is already paying dividends.
Long-Depaquit will be certified organic for the 2024 vintage. Although it has been working organically in premiers and grandscrus for the past five years, now all 128 acres (52ha) are managed organically. They have ten grands crus and 15 premiers crus. The premiers crus have ten months in barrel, the grands crus, 16 months.
“2022 is really warm and will be between 2020 and 2019. Warm and generous, but you still have the potential for wine that is delicate and gentle.”
Chablis Premier Cru Les Beugnons
Stainless steel. A bit reduced on the nose. Splashing peachy fruit on the attack, quite generous and rounded, with a smooth minerality through the palate, to a pithy and nicely bitter finish, keeping it tight at the end. 2025–30. 86–87
Chablis Premier Cru Les Lys
The cooler premier cru north-northeast exposure of Vaillons. White clay. Three plots. All made in stainless steel, so the different expression of terroir in this and Vaillons from Beugnons is clear. White-flower aroma, to a straight, well-edged palate. Good tension. Tight and crystaline, saline finish. 2025–32. 87–88
Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaillons
The vines are south-facing and this is a blend of four lieux-dits, much of it from Les Epennottes, where Louis describes the soil as “thick, red soils and when it rains here it is very wet and it bakes when it’s dry, so this suffered most among the Vaillons parcels.” This is richer, more horizontal than vertical, the effect of the clay soil. The smidgen of oak works well though. 2026–32. 86–87
Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaucoupins
A thin topsoil, with a depth of 32 inches (80cm) at most, all on a 35–50% slope. Massal selection, planted in the 1950s and ’60s. Tiny concentrated berries. Usually this parcel yields only 35hl/ha, and in 2022 it was just 25hl/ha. Uses a touch of oak to give some roundness, as this is very mineral. Straight, focused, and concentrated; it has good tension and wet stone to finish. Vitality and tight edges. Channeled. Love it. 2027–35. 92
Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots
Full, elegant, and airy. This is breezy fresh. Fine, slivery quality. Volume and intensity, yet it sparkles on the delicate and persistent finish. 2028–35. 93–94
Chablis Grand Cru Les Bougros
From vines more than 70 years old, and 9,000 vines per hectare, on the Côte de Bouguerots. It’s rich, generous, and punchy. Powerful shoulder, savory minerality and intensity to finish. 2028–36. 93–94
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
From three plots about 60, 30, and 29 years old. Caramel and flowers. Rich and generous up-front, neatly woven with ripe fruit and slicing freshness. A complete and balanced wine, with supple generosity and intensity. Powerful but so elegant, fresh, and sophisticated. Fab. 2028–40. 95
Chablis Grand Cru La Moutonne (Monopole)
La Moutonne is a 5.8-acre (2.35ha) plot, 95% in Vaudésirs and 5% in Les Preuses, on the warm slope at the mouth of the Vaudésir valley. Elegance and tension combine with greater harmony than Vaudésir. It is silkier and more instantly at ease, and the finish is intensely lingering, with bright fluidity. 2028–40. 94–95
Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
The parcel is on the plateau. Floral aromas, white peach, scented. All matured in 500-liter barrels. Silky and seductive and ripely rich, yet it has very lively, fresh acidity. Flows across the palate to a long and satin-textured finish. 2028–36. 92–93
Chablis Les Vaudésir Grand Cru
Almost warmer than Les Clos, and at the top it is much riper than at the bottom, with a 40–50% slope. Picked all together. Rich aroma. It is seductive and ripe up-front, and super-intense, but not broad. Quite the opposite. Incredibly focused and powerful on the finish as if squeezed into a tube. Exceedingly long and very salty. This really needs time. Probably the richest, but also one of the best, 2022 Vaudésir that I tasted. 2028–40. 94–95
DOMAINE DES MALANDES (CHABLIS)
It’s some years since I last visited this female-led family domaine, since when Lyne Marchive has retired (in 2017) after substantial investment expanding and re-equipping the winery, which quickly proved useful by accommodating the large 2018 vintage. Her daughter Amandine has taken the helm. The smaller wines are bottled early in the year following vintage. As they have their own bottling line, they can do several bottlings. Everything starts fermentation in tank, thensome premiers and grands crus are moved to 500-liter oak barrels (Chassin and Gillet). The grands crus have 90% oak and there is some new, of course. Here it spends eight months or so. Everything is bottled before the second winter. They prefer a clean must, so there’s a good settling and the wines are inoculated with three different yeasts for every cuvée. It’s a medium-sized domaine, with 200,000 bottles and 100 acres (40ha). Much was planted by Amandine’s grandfather in the 1950s, while Côte de Léchet and Vau de Vey were planted by Lyne Marchive in the 1980s.
Amandine Marchive remarks of the 2022 vintage: “Very concentrated, well-balanced, a lot of Chablis typicité, with a nice minerality. It will have very good aging potential. It looks like the 2019 vintage, the best of the decade for me… Well,maybe not, because 2014 and 2017 were very good, too. It shows that we can make good Chablis with freshness in a warm vintage, which makes us optimistic about climate change.”
Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre
From 35-year-old vines. Light and fresh. Lime zest, with a zip of acidity. There’s melon and ginger to finish. 2023–24. 82
Petit Chablis
From 35-year-old vines in a parcel near Beines, on a very stony, thin topsoil. Lightly creamy and lemony palate, with some fresh, grassy notes and a hint of attractive mineral. 2023–25. 83
Chablis Envers de Valmur
From a village parcel planted in 1967 by Amandine’s grandfather, who hoped it might become a grand cru like the parcels neighboring and opposite. It is tucked far into the valley on a cooler slope, though. This is the only domaine to bottle this lieu-dit (Benoît Droin blends his bit). A grippy, pithy palate, with a lemon pop; light bitterness of aniseed. It’s peppy and bright and has good intensity for a village wine. I like it. 2024–27. 86
Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume
From an upslope parcel, the first planted at the domaine, in 1953, in the sunny, west-facing section. Some 40% matured in barrels of 500 liters. Very nicely contained, even grippy. A smoky, darker mineral character on the well-sustained finish. 2026–35+. 90
Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Milieu
Some 50% matured in 500-liter barrels. Acquired through an exchange of vineyards, as Lyne Marchive wanted another Right-Bank wine. Richly, glossy, and ripe; greengages, almost tarte tatin, with a honeyed, caramelized note. A brioche richness, buttery from the oak, which comes together nicely in this more opulent wine. A good contrast with the more reserved Fourchaume. 2025–35+. 90
Chablis Premier Cru Montmains Vieilles Vignes
Vines planted in 1963 in the Montmains lieu-dit. Earthy, with savory sweetness. It’s rather juicy and quite full. A smoky,graphite, mineral finish. 2026–35. 87
Chablis Premier Cru Vau de Vey
Cool bite and crunch. Bright, fresh, and straight. Crisp and salty; lean and racy. Cucumber freshness. 2024–30+. 87–88
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
All matured in barrels, one or two years old. It remains there for eight to ten months and is then put in tank. (This hoovers up the oak, unlike their Vaudésir, which is rather oaky, although the salty finish is good.) Looks very good. Precise, intense, and vigorous. 2028–40. 93
DOMAINE LOUIS MICHEL (CHABLIS)
“A solar vintage,” says Guillaume Gicqueau-Michel. “A perfect example of what a Chablis can show with global warming. Despite the fact we have the warmth, we have the tension you expect when you have a bottle of Chablis. It shows that Chablis will continue with its personality. The style changes, but the quality improves. A little like 2020. A very different expression to 2019. Good aging capacity, although maybe not as much as 2014 or 2017.”
It is interesting to compare Montmains from the three lieux-dits. The vines for the Butteaux Vieilles Vignes are a little older—65 years, compared with 50 or so for the main cuvée. The difference is more about the soil, which has marl, white clay, mixed with Kimmeridgian.
Chablis Premier Cru Butteaux
Intense and focused. Punchy wine, with wet-stone minerality. A fuller mid-palate than the Fôrets, with a sweet succulence on the finish. 2026–35. 88
Chablis Premier Cru Butteaux Vieilles Vignes
Aniseed notes on this compact and quite muscular palate. A level up in freshness and tension. Plenty of zip to finish. 2027–35. 89–90
Chablis Premier Cru Forêts
Spicy notes of dried fennel and coriander seeds, with a whiff of exotic florals. More refined, precise, and elegant, with a flinty, sharp finish and a hint of gunpowder. A good Fôrets. 2026–32. 88
Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre
All from Chapelots, generally considered to be the best lieu-dit. Rich, savory, and concentrated, with a cold grip. A finish of polished steel. 2026–35+. 92
Chablis Premier Cru Montmains
Plump, rich, and succulent. A fruit-driven palate with a warm gravel aroma. Moderate length and intensity. Michel thinks this is an effect of the vintage, as it would typically be more floral and airy. 2025–29. 86
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
Golden with ripe peach, even some apricot. A most exuberant Clos up-front. Jumps out of the glass, but tightens to become focused, layered, precise, with a very well-sustained, firm, and burnished-steel finish. 2028–35. 94–95
Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir
From the more north- and west-facing slope. Straight, pure, and no lack of tension. Sweet/salt concentration. Precise edges and a streamlined finish. The most elegant 2022 Vaudésir I tasted. 2026–35+. 93–94
J MOREAU ET FILS (CHABLIS)
“The challenge was to keep freshness with the concentration in the grapes in 2022,” says winemaker Lucie Depuydt. “Even if the analysis of acidity is low, the freshness is there. I could compare it with 2019 for the yellow-fruit character in the wines. There is peach in the wine in both vintages.”
Lucie Depuydt has mapped the soil and subsoil types in Chablis, focusing on their water-holding capacity. This knowledge proves particularly useful in a dry vintage, informing her decisions when selecting fruit for this large négociant.
She favors a long aging on lees and is not constrained by space. J Moreau has huge premises on the edge of the village and can age all the premiers crus and grands crus for a second winter.
“I love 2019 and I see that 2022 is not far from the 2019. Even if the analysis shows concentration, the wine is very fresh and so pleasurable.”
Petit Chablis
A rather good organic Petit Chablis, which Lucie initiated in 2019. Hot-stone aroma. Fresh and zesty, citrus wine. Crisp clip and plenty of energy. 2024–27. 83
Chablis
There is also an organic Chablis in the portfolio, while this well-balanced wine comes from a large 300,000-bottle cuvée. Slight spice, coriander, and peach. Smooth glide into a succulent palate, with honeyed sweetness and a touch of oregano flower. 2024–27. 82
Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Milieu
Intensely perfumed. Orange fruit and orange flower. Succulent and juicy strike; fullish and rounded; silky and sumptuous. But then the freshness of white citrus and wet-stone minerals come through and carry the finish. 2027–35+. 91–92
Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre
From a parcel toward the top, with a slightly westerly exposure. Litchee and anise aroma. Full, firm, and straight. Quite powerful, but elegant, as the muscle is svelte and toned. A tight core to the palate. Graphite finish. 2027–35+. 91
Chablis Premier Cru Montmains
Butteaux old vines and Forêt 25-year-old vines. There is 30% oak of various sizes. This is rich, generous, and punchy. Quite full and bullish. Vigorous, dense, and a touch muscular. Earthy minerals. It has rustic appeal. 2027–35+. 86–87
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
Tropical aromas. A lively fresh cut comes together with white pithy notes and a hint of saline minerality. 2026–32. 85–86
Chablis Premier Cru Vaucoupin
Three parcels, two more than 65 years old. Enticing, cold-stone aroma. Intense and edgy. Oyster shell. Straight and focused. Whiplash to finish. Hint of seaweed. Not a whit of fruit. All savory, mineral. Love it. 2027–35+. 88
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
The aroma is gorgeous, sweetly sumptuous with a touch of liquid caramel. The burnished palate is beautifully woven. Seductive and impressive on the finish. Complex and complete. This delivers. 2028–40. 94
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
The peachy aroma is seductive and in contrast to the austere palate. It’s broad, concentrated, and vigorous, with a powerful, dark, graphite finish. Grabs you and doesn’t let go. 2028–40. 93–94
DOMAINE SIMONNET-FEBVRE (CHABLIS)
Simonnet-Febvre has 47 acres (19ha) of its own vineyards in addition to purchasing fruit. Managing director Paul Espitalie harvested in the first week of September. “We postponed the start of harvest as the yields were good and it needed a few days extra to ripen. It is a vintage that really shows the terroir of Chablis. The sensation of minerality helps to keep the sense of freshness, even though the acidity was not high. Unlike 2018, which reached 14% ABV, this was 12–12.5%. A good surprise from the vintage, despite the hot summer.” There is no oak on the Left-Bank premiers crus and only 20% on the Right. “I want to keep the purity of terroir and the complexity, with the little differences we have in Chablis, and to keep the delicate flavors by not using much oak.” In 2022, 35% of the grands crus are fermented and aged in oak, rather than 50% as for other recent vintages. “I did not want to add too much sugary taste to a ripe vintage.”
Chablis Premier Cru Beauroy
Slightly tropical pineapple aroma. Soft and full; juicy and spicy, with just a gentle touch of soft mineral and grapefruit to finish. 2024–26. 84–85
Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Léchet
From this stony terroir, a firm, fresh mineral wine, with almond bitterness and citrus notes and a firm finish. 2025–29. 87
Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Milieu
“A touch of oak (20% not new) to give some complexity.” Stem ginger, honeyed aroma, with a rich, firm, and ripe palate. The oak works well by adding a little tannic bite and firmness to the rounded profile typical of this terroir and freshness to the finish. 2026–32. 90
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
Peachy aroma. Scented. This is a 30,000-bottle cuvée, which encompasses different lieux-dits, making it a good representative of this climat. Rounded and lightly plump, this has a sunnier feel than Léchet, but is more restrained than Beauroy. 2025–28. 86
Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots
Delicate, floral, crisp, and super-saline. I like the intensity, cold, mineral purity, and lively persistence. 2027–35. 93
Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
This is a domaine wine. It’s more exotic than their Clos. Greengage aroma, then a super-succulent and juicy palate, which carries to a persistent and aromatic finish chased up with minerality. 2027–35. 93
DOMAINE FRANÇOIS RAVENEAU (CHABLIS)
“The best of both worlds,” says Isabelle Raveneau of the 2022 vintage. “It has the Chablis style, with added ripeness and richness in the palate. It is similar to 2020 for balance and aromatics.”
Petit Chablis
From younger vines planted in 2010 on the plateau above the grand cru vineyards. It can be reached by walking up through Vaudésir, and I recommend a look. The soil is poor and rocky. Isabelle remarks that the vines had a hard time establishingthemselves. Vines here are vulnerable to spring frost, but they ripen well, which is not surprising because it’s both hot and windy up there, as I discovered. Super-fresh and vibrant. A nimble prance; a grapefruit slice of freshness and a dash of salinity. An excellent Petit Chablis. Yum. 2024–30. 86
Chablis
The deeper soil gives the richness, and the northwest exposure, the freshness. Luscious aroma, with a touch of apricot and a succulent attack. Energetic and smoothly mineral, with impressive density for a village wine. 2026–32. 87–88
Chablis Premier Cru Butteaux
From the top of Butteaux, where there is white clay and where the temperature is cooler. 55-year-old vines. Pounces on the attack,showing quite some density and breadth for the Left Bank. Savory, with a salty grip on the finish. Top-notch. 2027–38. 92
Chablis Premier Cru Forêt
Lighter, more friable, and deeper soil for this parcel at the bottom of the slope. Litchee aromas combine with lime flower. An elegant, lucid, and streamlined Forêt, with cool, fine, and talc-textured minerality stretching the finish. 2026–36. 89–90
Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre
Savory aroma with a hint of orange zest. Punches straight on the attack, very crisp and grippy at the edge of the palate. Excellent spine of acidity and then white miso; a creamy, earthy saltiness. It has richness and density of texture, presence, tension, and length. 2030–40. 94
Chablis Premier Cru Montmains
A refined, vivacious, and intense Montmains, with a somewhat flighty profile. It’s more refined and less muscular than most I tried. It pings with energy across the palate. 2027–35. 89–90
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
Fragrant with lemon balm. Fullish, but with an airy delicacy and plenty of intensity. Spicy peppercorn and anise notes. Balletic and precise. The acidity is crisp and there are salt crystals on the finish. 2027–36. 90
Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots
At 90 years old, these are the oldest vines of the domaine, producing small and concentrated berries. They are almost touching Les Clos, and at the top of the climat, so although the parcel is east-facing, they get plenty of sunshine. Charming and blossomy. It has large volume on the palate and yet it is delicate and finely textured. Lacy and yet steely—a fine-wired filigree. Glistens on the lingering finish. Love it. 2030–40. 95–96
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
From four parcels. Isabelle says the fruit from each is very different, but all are picked in half a day and fermented together. Concise and compact, with a marvelously long and polished finish. Super-tight at the moment, but what splendid promise. 2032–40+. 96
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
“We are on the more south-facing slope. It does not get the sun until about 10am, but then it is hot all day and there is no wind, so it retains the heat. The stones reflect that heat and radiate it at night. It’s steep. We don’t work here in the afternoon.” Reserved and stony. Serious power, layered and concentrated. It’s super-compact and has a broad, muscular frame but also cold, cutting acidity. Powers home on an assertive finish. Austere. 2032–40+. 96
DOMAINE SERVIN (CHABLIS)
Servin makes 250,000 bottles. The premiers and grands crus are fermented in larger oak barrels. Montée de Tonnerre, Mont de Milleu, and the grands crus are racked into older 450-liter barrels for a second winter. Marc Cameron says, “I am surprised byhow young they taste still. Very fresh, unlike the rich 2018, 2019, and 2020 at this point, which tasted drier and not as fruity and forward. So, we may keep them longer on lees.” He finds the vintage to be “between the richer 2015 and the drier 2017.”
Petit Chablis
From 1.5 acres (0.61ha) of Sur Les Clos. Attractive golden aroma, with white-peach fruit, fresh and vibrant and lightly steely. 2023–26. 82–83
Chablis Cuvée Massale
From old, massal selection vines within Les Pargues. “Generally gives very low yields, about 30hl/ha and a wider range of aromas,” says Cameron. Some 30% fermented in second- and third-fill barrels. Spicy, with ground coriander on the nose; richer and more concentrated than Les Pargues. This has some muscle. Quite chewy. 2026–32. 86
Chablis Cuvée Les Pargues
Les Pargues was classified as premier cru, but the land was abandoned until the 1960s. Producers who have replanted here have petitioned for premier cru classification, but with no luck. Around five producers make it, and some say not all of this large climatwould merit a rise in status. Servin makes its parcel of 5.4 acres (2.2ha) separately from the main village cuvée and it has longer aging over a second winter. Ripe citrus fruit with some tension, and savory, sappy salinity. Some grip and bite to the finish. 2025–30. 85
Chablis Premier Cru Butteaux
“More topsoil than Forêts and 54-year-old vines. It’s always more powerful, which is why we ferment it all in (older) barrels.” It’s fullish, firmer and denser than their lighter Forêts, which is made with young vines. Earthy. 2026–35. 87
Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Millieu
From 49-year-old vines. Only 33hl/ha, so a half production, probably due to the frost. All in barriques, but five or more years old. Sunny aroma of greengages, with a sea-salt note. Full and concentrated on the attack, sumptuous, richly textured, and indulgent. Apricot on the finish. Lush. 2025–35. 90
Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre
Small yields also here, so maybe again some frost damage. This is compact and more layered than Mont de Millieu. Dark minerality, more tension and a vigorous finish. Savory and grippy. 2025–35. 91
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
Five of the seven Vaillons lieux–dits are included here, not vinified separately. All are harvested the same day—6 acres (2.5ha)—so they have to machine-harvest this. A silky sheen on the front palate; cantaloup melon and ginger. Very fruity, but it has a fresh line of acidity. Silky mineral and freshness on the finish. Rather nice. 2026–32+. 87
Chablis Premier Cru Vaucoupin
Servin bought this in 2012 from a vigneronne who was retiring and didn’t want to sell to anyone in her village of Fleys. Vines are 55 years old. “It was in great shape. Not a vine missing. Very rocky soil on a steep slope—south-facing, with a little east-facing. A hard place to harvest.” Restrained, high, and energetic, with a tight line. Oyster shell. Light seaweed note on the finish. Straight and edgy. 2026–30+. 88
Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
“We always get small berries and more skin here,” says Cameron. A silky texture, fluid and rippling. More depth and layering here. It flows into an elegant and satin mineral finish. A fine and delicate, persistent finish. So supple. 2026–35. 93
