Sarah Marsh MW’s coverage of this delightful vintage continues with her second set of extensive notes on the wines of the Côte de Nuits, this time featuring producers in Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-St-Georges.
Vosne-Romanée
DOMAINE D’EUGÉNIE
The 16-acre (6.5ha) Domaine René Engel was bought by François Pinault, owner of Château Latour and other prestigious properties, in 2006. It is managed by Michel Mallard, who moved to an organic approach in 2011, gaining certified status in 2020. Up to 80% whole-bunch. Mallard remarks, “Even if it was the warmest vintage we have, it is elegant. It is unlike 2020, which will be incredible, but in the long term. 2020 is more concentrated. The 4 inches (100mm) of rain in June changed the profile of the 2022 vintage. It is difficult to compare with recent vintages, as we didn’t get 40ºC (104ºF) in the past. It is why 2022 is so surprising. In five years, I am not sure if you will say it is a warm vintage. It is one of the best for Burgundy.”s
Vosne-Romanée
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Half is from lieu-dit Vigneux and half from top-of-the-village Combe Brûlée. Fragrant red-fruit aroma. 20% whole-bunch. Red-fruit, piquant, crunchy, fine-textured tannins, and freshness to finish. Pretty Vosne-Romanee. 2026–32. 88–89
Vosne-Romanée Clos d’Eugénie
Some 30% new oak and 40% whole-bunch. From a proper clos, warm and sheltered from the wind. The topsoil is some 3ft (1m). 35% limestone. Average 40-year-old vines. Richer and riper feeling, with warm strawberry fruits and sightly exotic spices. Ripe, but retains its lightness, an airy feel and fine-textured tannins. Very spicy to finish. “It would be easy to go to black fruit here, so we pick first. The whole-bunch adds bones, line, and spice,” says Mallard. 2026–35. 89
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Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Aux Brûlée
60% new oak and 80% whole-bunch. The lower section of Brûlées was replanted in 2022, using several rootstocks,because it had not been performing as well as the top section. Red-currant fruit, with lively intensity. Fine, silky texture. It has a singing, sapid note to finish, and herbs and spices from the whole-bunch. Good focus. 2028–38. 95
Echézeaux Grand Cru
From En Orveau, the north-facing section. 80% whole-bunch. Two thirds new barrels. Cool and streamlined. A straight, well-edged palate. Crisp. Delicate, fine-textured tannins. This has firm direction and precision. Keen line into the finish. Racy. Lightly salty at the end. It is refined. A lovely expression of this terroir. 2028–40. 96–97
This branch of the Gros family pursue a ripe fruit style of red wine. Vincent Gros has been making the wine for the past decade, replacing Bernard in 2011, and the wines are more precise and less oaky than previously, but the spirit of ripe fruit and supple texture remains. Blimey, other things have changed here, too. I perched my laptop on a shiny, black grand piano in the cellar, which was lit with a chequer board of lights beneath my feet. Snazzy.
Vincent started harvesting on September 8. “I like to have real maturity.” Sometimes he nudges things along with a little chaptalization in cooler vintages such as 2021: “It’s smoother when the ripeness is lower. When we have higher ripenessand concentration, I prefer osmosis, but the process is much longer.” Everything is destemmed and both remontage and pigeage are used, but not every day, as Vincent prefers a long, slow extraction. All reds are in aged in barrel (Cavin exclusively) before moving to stainless steel over a second winter. A bit more new oak in 2022, within the newer lower oak regime, given the small previous vintages.
There has been some redistribution of vineyards within the Gros clan, so 2021 was the last vintage of Grands Echézeaux here. At grand cru level, Richebourg is a lovely example, but at the other end of the hierarchy, the savory entry-level whites are also worth seeking out, as is the red, the vineyard named after the monks who passed along that way.
Vincent Gros finds 2022 to be most like 2015—“not for the grapes but for the result. I have the memory of 2015, which is more powerful than 2022 with the sweetness, although it hasn’t the 2022 exuberance.” So, we tried an Echézeaux 2015,which was aged in 100% new oak and assessed it beside a sample of 2022 from a new oak barrel. The 2015 is sweet and rich and generous (a touch young yet), while the 2022 is lighter and brighter. The balance is made at an airier level. We also tried 2017—a vintage in which Vincent decided to take the plunge into no sulfites for whites and reds. This was more evolved aromatically than 2015, but more similar in structure to 2022.
White
Chardonnay Vin de France
From 3.7 acres (1.5ha) planted in 2016 in Concoeur, but there is no appellation. Destemmed and crushed before it is pressed. Ripe, but nicely sappy and savory, with a lightly austere character to wrap up. 2023–26. 83–84
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Planted in 1990. Some foresight here. Citrus-pithy, upright aroma. Straight, tight, and energetic palate, which is savory and nutty, with citrus notes and a marzipan, salty finish. It has a bit of phenolic grip. I like it. 2024–28. 85–86
Red
Coteaux-Bourguignons / Pinot Noir Vin de France
A juicy and fruity wine. Splashing and exuberant. Jolly nice, accessible wine. 2024–26. 83
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Blueberry aroma with an expressive, ripe, forest fruit palate. Soft tannins are balanced with just-sufficient freshness. Charming. 2024–27. 85
Chemin des Moines de Vergy Vin de France
From young vines planted in 2014 and 2015 over 9.4 acres (3.8ha). Seductive, red, summer-fruit aroma and attack. Ripe, generous, and aromatic, the palate is undercut with a cold, mineral clip and there’s sapidity to finish. Like the contrast. From the plateau 1,280–1,310ft (390–400m) above Vosne-Romanée on very poor and rocky soil. On a higher trellis, too,so this is both super-ripe and chalky. 2024–27. 85
Vosne-Romanée
From two parcels: Aux Réas and, below this, Au Dessus de la Rivière. Ripe aromatics, soft and gently rounded. Charming, plump wine, with just nicely balanced acidity to finish. There is a touch of oak to bring freshness to the end. Very ripe and aromatic. 2025–30. 87–88
Vosne-Romanée Clos de la Fontaine
The first vintage. The gorgeous, ripe, summer-fruit aroma flows seamlessly into the soft and sumptuous palate. Plump and charming, with soft tannins and just lovely freshness to finish the palate. From 0.9 acre (0.35ha), seven barrels. This was planted in 1991 by Michel Gros, then moved to Anne-Françoise Gros, and has now landed at Gros Frères et Soeur. Delish. 2026–32. 89–90
Echézeaux Grand Cru
So, they have lost the Grands Echézeaux, but retain this parcel in Loächausses. Not the best site in Echézeaux, but it’s produced a rather delicate and pure wine, with a talc-slippery tannin and a refined finish. Light, airy, and silky. 2027–35+. 95
Richebourg Grand Cru
With rose petal and warm summer fruits, this glides with depth and elegance. So refined, with its satin texture, and the finish is a pure whistle of mineral tension. What a fab finish. 2028–40. 98
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Assertive aroma. Punchy and broad on the attack. Even where a more aromatic and smooth profile is pursued, the terroir barges through. Power and density; the succulent fruit is contained and channeled into the forceful finish, which is both vigorous and persistent. “From above the château near the wall, so the maturity is always very high.” 2028–40. 96
We tasted the regional wines at 70ºF (21ºC), as they had just been pumped into the winery where some 2023s were finishing fermentation, but despite this, the Hautes-Côtes still tasted fresh and energetic. Anne has 4.2 acres (1.7ha) here in the Concoeur area. She always moves the wines after vintage into tank and bottles before the end of the year, as she wants to catch the freshness of fruit and not to leave them too long in barrel. Four coopers. 30-60% new oak, “from Bourgogne to grand cru.” Everything is always destemmed. Anne has experimented but whole-bunch was not for her. Whole-berry is important. This is a question of respect.”
“We had a good crop, one of the biggest, but with no influence on the quality. I like the style. It is not very acidic but it stays balanced. The acidity is better than 2003. I make some Pinot Noir in the south and I learned that Pinot Noir likes the heat. For the tension, it is like 2010, which even now is very tight. The 2010 was also very ripe, but the 2010 is never flat. Maybe like 2010 and 2002, particularly for Clos Vougeot. I prefer 2022 to 2002. You can do whatever you want with the 2022—drink it or keep it.”
White
Bourgogne Blanc Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Cuvée Marine
This is savory, sappy, and has bite and freshness. Really like this. 2024–26. 85
Red
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
From an altitude of 1,475–1,510ft (450-460m). I really like this crunchy wine. Red fruit. Pure, slim, but with nice ripeness and freshness. So appetizing. 20224–27. 85
Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau
Pure red fruit. Delicate and refined. Silky tannins. Slim and elegant. Just lightly saline at the end. A pure and racy wine. 2026–32. 90
Vosne-Romanée Le Barreaux
A northerly exposition and rocky soil, planted in 1903, so 120-year-old vines. Anne has many very old vines in Barreaux, Clos Vougeot, and Richebourg. If the flowering conditions are good, the yields are fine. Sweet, cordial, fruit aromas. Super-smooth first impression, tightens in with more of a crunchy bite, which gives plenty of freshness and really pops on the finish. A combination of sweetness, energy, and crunch. 2026–32. 89–90
Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru
This parcel has come over from Gros Frères et Soeur. Dense aroma. Rich and rather opulent strike to a full and sumptuous mid-palate. It combines power and generosity. Luscious finish. A more hedonistic expression of Echézeaux. 2028–40. 96
Richebourg Grand Cru
Combines power and intensity with such elegance. It is a little reserved, but shows gorgeous depth of fruit, and there is presence, purity, and light on the beautiful extended finish. “It has always been very elegant. Like that,” Anne says, snapping her fingers. 2028–40. 98
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Rich and ripe fruit aroma. Broad and punchy. This is a much more solid wine than her other grand cru. Dense. Compact. Grippy muscularity and attacks the finish. Takes no prisoners. “I never have a problem of acidity with the old vines,” says Anne. 2028–40. 96
Pierre Gouges has taken over from his father Michel now. He comments on the season: “We had enough rain—more in Vosne and Chambolle, with an extra 30mm [1 inch] in the spring, which helped, especially in June, which had more rain than usual. There was no point where the leaves turned yellow. Even in Morey, there was no sign of this.”
“The maturity was quite high. So, as in 2018, 2019, and 2020, we did not push the extraction. No cold-fermentation, either. We started as soon as possible. In less ripe vintages, we go to a higher temperature and for longer, but this was not necessary in 2022. Nor was it necessary to use the concentrator.” Nothing had been racked when I tasted. “We wait a week to have a good settling, so we do not rack in the middle of the élevage.”
“The 2022 vintage is ripe, but the ripeness is not like 2020—it’s more like 2019 or 2018. The balance is good—less freshness than 2021, but good. Thanks to the volume, it is not so concentrated as 2020. 2022 is more classic, even though it was very early, as we started on September 3.”
“I do not see any reason for them not to age. We have balance, acidity, and ripeness. For the 2020s, you have to wait, but the 2022s, you can drink them young or you can wait—8 to 12 years, depending on the appellation. Maybe there isn’t the greatest aging capacity, but nor is there any reason why they should not age well.”
The domaine has expanded its grand cru holdings, recovering some Echézeaux and Richebourg from the Gros Frère et Soeur domaine.
White
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Fontaine St-Martin
About 8,000 to 12,000 bottles from 7.5 acres (3ha) of Chardonnay. Stone-fruit aroma, with a touch of white peach on the palate, but it is super-savory, too. Very fresh and mineral, with pronounced sapidity. Gosh, I like this. 2025–30. 87
Red
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Fermented in foudres and then into barrels. Red-currant-fresh and bright aroma. Keen and straight. Sparky and zesty. Crunchy tannins. Tangy finish. 2025–27. 83
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Fontaine St-Martin
From an east-facing parcel on white clay. This has the smoothest and silkiest tannin of the three Hautes-Côtes de Nuitswines. It is fresh, fluid, ripping with neat edges and pure and singing fruit. Only old vines here, planted in the 1970s. A rather sophisticated Hautes-Côtes, with a lightly saline finish. I like it a lot. 2025–30. 86
Morey-St-Denis En la Rue de Vergy
There are only three barrels this vintage, from the 0.75-acre (0.3ha) parcel, but it never yields much. A sunny, ripe strawberry aroma. The aroma is riper than the fruit on the palate, which is rather cooler red currant. A slim wine. Light, delicate texture, fine muslin draped over the piquant red fruit. Super-mineral, refined, and salty palate. This parcel is so consistent. I always love it. 2026–32. 88
Nuits-St-Georges Les Chaliots
From a village vineyard below premier cru Les Porrets, with flintstone in the deep soil. Punchy attack. Hedgerow fruits. Lively mid-palate, with some tannic grip, and it pounces to finish. More personality and longer than the cuvée of parcels on the Vosne side, which make up the regular cuvée. “Maybe the hotter vintages help. I feel it is smoother and less rustic than it used to be,” says Pierre. “There is some new planting on ATBV Pinot Fin, which is a collection of fine clones and another massal selection from the nursery—a good way to have more diversity.” 2026–32. 87
Chambolle-Musigny
Two thirds Argillières and a little parcel near the RN74. A more upright aroma than the Vosne and a zesty jump onto the palate. I like the tangy freshness. There is a colder mineral note, which carries the finish. It is a cold exposure, at the top of the bowl, and more north-facing: “A quarry, and so most of the soil was taken away,” adds Pierre. 2026–32. 88
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru
A blend of Vignes-Rondes and Murgers. Juicy, full, and generous. Dark red-cherry fruit, with both succulence and freshness. Quite a broad palate. Not quite as smooth as you might expect, though—there is quite a lot of firm tannin. “The yields are very low, so this has a lot of concentration as well as tannins with a high skin-to-juice ratio,” explains Pierre. 2027–35. 92–93
Vosne-Romanée
From three parcels, mainly in Aux Réas and La Colombière. A seductive aroma of ripe strawberry fields and warm spices. A delicious, plump, and rounded palate, with soft tannins, just nicely threaded with freshness. Alluring and very Vosne. Perfumed finish. 2026–32. 90
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Aux Brulées
Rich fruit, firm but fine structure, and loads of intensity. Plenty of vigor. A persistent finish. This is rather good. 2028–40.95–96
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Clos des Réas
Smoothly textured, this glides effortlessly. It is streamed with just-sufficient freshness and a light sappiness to the tannins,which adds to the freshness. 2028–35. 94–95
Richebourg Grand Cru
The last time the domaine made this was in 1995. Red-fruit and very aromatic. The new oak works well. Vibrant, pure,and light. It has translucency, intensity, and purity. Very refined and persistent. Certainly, a wine with presence but filled with light. 2028–40. 97
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
From a parcel replanted in 1987. 100% new oak (mostly Rousseau). It is rather sumptuous. Softly rich, with a thick depth to the texture. Quite aromatic and spicy. There is freshness on the finish and lovely length. 2028–40. 96+
Maxime Cheurlin’s négociant business produces ten wines, including a good volume of Hautes-Côtes, which I didn’t taste, as it is aged in Nuits. He harvests these parcels. For Feusselottes, he also manages the vineyard. He had a much later MLF than most in 2022, which was just finished in October when I tasted, but he welcomed the slower tempo: “It’s really good, as the wine digests the new oak well.” Cheurlin uses largely Cavin (80%) which he likes for its discreet aromas and freshness. There is 50% new oak on the premiers crus. “I want new oak, but not to smell it.”
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Feusselottes
Dewy fresh raspberry aroma. Silky, aromatic, and light-bodied. This dances on the palate. I often find this premier cru a bit jammy, but not here. This is lively, fresh, and delicate, with a fine, gauzy texture. Pure and aromatic finish. Just spot-on. 2027–38. 95
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Fontenys
Forrest fruits and graphite. Rich, ripe fruit, but cool and fresh with energy. Firm structure, with a touch of bite and grip, but so elegantly done. This comes from the lower section (in the middle of the Roty part). Nicely extended on the finish. 2028–40. 94
Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru Monts Luisants
Silky tannins. Smooth stream across the palate. Straight and even, to a cool, fresh, and salty-sapid finish. Clean and pure line. So stylish. 2027–38. 95
DOMAINE GEORGES NOËLLAT
Maxime Cheurlin’s wines have a beautiful texture. They are elegant and refined—a style that really floats my boat. He says, “I love the balance, lots of intensity, and it stays fresh.”
In 2022, Cheurlin stopped trimming the vines and is using tressage, which he finds gives “more phenolic maturity and less alcohol. The maturity arrives earlier so you can keep more freshness and lightness.” The highest alcohol level in 2022is 13.2%. He used 10–20% stems, which is usual. “I use it just for the freshness.” Small berries, with more skin-to-juice than usual in 2022. He likes remontage, two or even three times a day. When it reaches a density of 1000, he does a little pigeage. He prefers to go straight to barrel and finish the fermentation in barrel, saying that he never needs to rack during élevage.
“You can wait 20 years for most of these wines. I love the freshness of fruit, but the wines may close a little after bottling. For us, it is like 2006, because of the density of fruit.”
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Boudots
Rather sumptuous aroma. Rich texture immediately enfolds the palate. Generous, deep, velvety, and full. Blackberry fruit. A luscious quality, and on the finish, very fresh. Great terroir expression. 2027–40. 94–95
Vosne-Romanée
Four parcels, including Champ Perdrix from the top of the slope. Vivid red-fruit aroma. Fresh strike. Crunchy tannins; crisp and energetic. This skips gleefully across the palate on juicy summer fruit. Lovely. 2026–32. 90
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Beaux Monts
From the better, lower (Beaux Monts Bas) section of the vineyard, just above his Echézeaux. Pure aroma. Lucid fruit streams into palate, with freshness and energy. Suave sweep and glide. Full in the middle, elegant on the finish. Seductive and silky. “It is a premier cru at the top level, for me,” he remarks. It’s a gorgeous example. 2028–40. 96
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Petits Monts
An elegant, finely textured, streamlined palate. Piquant. Lively. Slim texture and trim shape, but super-intense. Chalky notes combine with red-currant fruit and a fresh, minty character stretching into the finish. Slight herbal lift at the finish. This is all destemmed. “You don’t need stems—it would be too much, with the minerality,” says Cheurlin. This has a long (9–10-day) cold, pre-fermentation maceration, so maybe this gives it the minty note. 2027–40. 95
Echézeaux Grand Cru
From the Vignes Blanches lieu-dit, planted in 1913. Yields of only 25hl/ha, so just three barrels, of which two are new. A very intense aroma. Immediately so ripe, rich, and juicy on the front-palate. This shows concentration and density, but no weight. Satin-smooth texture and streamlined onto the finish. Aromatic at the end. 2028–40. 96–97
Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru
Only new oak. Richness and intensity—the oak shows, but boosts the freshness. Compact palate. Punchy. Full, dense, vigorous persistence. 2028–40. 97–98
Louis-Michel Liger-Belair has increased his 26-acre (10.5ha) estate to produce four new wines. The fermage arrangement with Natalie Lamarche, which extends to 2050, includes parcels of Bourgogne, village Vosne Aux Réas, premier cru La Croix Rameau and Malconsorts, and grand cru Echézeaux. The range now extends to 19 wines.
Asked about vintage comparisons, Liger-Belair replied: “2010, for freshness, and the ripeness of 2015,” adding, “It’s not heavy. It’s light for an early vintage, and we kept that freshness.”
Grapes are destemmed, although since 2007 Liger-Belair has included a positive selection of a few perfect bunches for theChaumes, Brûlées, Suchots, and the grands crus, remarking that it can increase the quality of wines from clay soils by giving them more direction. He uses pigeage only at the beginning of fermentation, which is long—up to 29 days. His preferred cooper is François Fréres.
White
Nuit-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Grandes Vignes
When this vineyard was purchased in 2012, some Pinot had recently been grafted over to Chardonnay. (This climat, in Premeaux, lies below the RN74, and half is village level.) It’s quite powerful and rich, with nice density. A touch of greengage fruit. I like the grip. Made in 350-liter barrels. 2026–32. 90
Red
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Cras
From vines planted in 1921. Upright aroma. A fresh spring onto the palate. Zesty acidity and a cool, firm, and steely core. Vibrant energy. Fizzles on the finish. I like this a lot. 2027–40. 95
Vosne-Romanée
A blend of 11 parcels from the north and south of the village, plus 20% from the top of the slope. Spicy licorice, with a slight jammy sweetness and deliciously concentrated fruit. Nicely rounded and smoothly textured. Fresh and ripe, with a peppery and lively finish. Of the three village Vosnes, I found this the most complete. 2026–32. 90–91
Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château
Ripe red-cherry aroma. More limestone soil here. Finely textured tannins, lightly plump and rounded, very spicy from the oak, but crisply fresh to finish. The 1.85-acre (0.75ha) Clos has walls 13ft (4m) high, and you definitely feel the ripeness, but also the textural elegance. 2026–35. 90
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Brûlées
This is a one-barrel, 300-liter, cuvée from the arrow of the Brûlées touching Suchots. Vigorous, spicy, and fresh. Firmly structured, with a slatey bite to the tannins. Licorice and fennel characters to the fruit. Graphite on the extended finish. 2028–40. 95
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru La Croix Rameau
Louis Michel now has more than 5 acres (2ha) of this small premier cru tucked into the bottom corner of Romanée-St-Vivant, leaving the other two producers just a morsel. Ripe floral aroma. Lucid red fruit. Light, airy, and intense, this has a graceful feel, with a fine, silky texture. Long and shimmering finish. 2028–40. 96
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Malconsorts
An orange and spicy cinnamon aroma (perhaps partly from the François Frères barrels). Full-bodied, firmly structured wine, with a suede-soft depth of tannin. Dense and yet luscious. This has volume. Old vines were not replaced in the ’80s,when Lamarche did their replanting. 2028–40. 96
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Reignots
Liger-Belair owns 1.8 acres (0.73ha) here—almost half of this excellent climat. Gorgeous perfume, both intense and delicate. Gauzy texture. Detailed and precise. So refined on the finish. This shimmers. Just a delight. 2028–40. 97
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Suchots
From 1.2 acres (0.5ha) in two parcels. Rich and deep texture. Smooth muscularity. Glossy, full-bodied wine, which rolls across the palate, generating momentum. A powerful profile, which stretches vigorously into the finish. 2028–40. 95–96
Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru
Very seductive aroma. Rich satin texture. It’s ripe and so very sumptuous as it unfurls. A deep, full, and delicious finish. Excellent example. 2030–40. 97
La Romanée Grand Cru (Monopole)
This very precious climat is a mere 2.088 acres (0.8452ha). Intense and pure. Crystalline wine. Precise, cut-glass edges. So detailed, focused, and so very long. Exquisite, glimmering finish. Great poise and length. 2028–40. 99
Jean-Nicolas Méo remarks, “The wines range from 12.5% to 14% ABV. High pHs, but they didn’t change much after MLF and the wines have tightened a lot during aging. I felt we had a nice vintage at first, maybe too gentle, but now it proves to be more serious than I thought. The wines now seem more severe, and this complements the ripe fruit.”
Nuits-St-Georges
A blend of Bas de Combe and Les Grandes Vignes. Blackberry fruit aroma. Silky texture, with plenty of freshness. Slight saltiness blends with the ripe forest fruits. Sweet and salty. I like this village wine. What a good marriage of fruit, the farther north (Bas de Combe) bringing richness and fruit to the far south Premeaux-Prissey for fine texture. 2026–30. 89
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Fuesselottes
Rich, ripe aroma. Ripe, almost jammy sweetness, with some freshness cutting though. Spicy white-pepper notes and a touch of licorice. Definitely on the riper side. 2027–32. 91
“Although on the ripe side, 2022 has balance, some firmness and structure,” says JN Méo. “For the extraction, we always wonder about it… and end up doing the same thing. Extraction was easy in 2022, but you had to make sure what you extracted was round, so a warm maceration and each vat had to be assessed every day.”
“I guess some wines will be ready very early. My wines are always more structured at this stage than they are in bottle,and it will make for nice early drinking. But given that the structure of the vintage is more serious that I initially thought, you might need to wait for some.”
“It makes me think of 1999. A ‘good’ comparison, as I really loved ’99.”
White
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Blanc Clos St Philibert
Zesty and lemony aroma. Very fresh palate. Stony at the end, with a nice bitterness. Very appetizing indeed. 2025–28. 85
Red
Corton Les Perrières Grand Cru
This has about 10% of the stems. “I destem everything, but since 2014, I like to add some stems back. It helps build more body and doesn’t worsen the grip. I felt Perrières can be too severe.” Precise and cool. Straight, tight, and dynamic. Good tension. Blueberry fruit. Firm, mineral finish and some fresh sappiness at the end. I like this style. 2028–35. 94–95
Vosne-Romanée
The fruit comes from two village lieux-dits—Les Barreaux and Aux Communes. Spicy, upright aroma and palate. Zesty and energetic. A piquant red-currant profile. Slim, light-bodied palate. Quite nervy, with slightly herbal notes. I wondered if it had some whole-bunch, but no. “One of the lowest levels ripeness in Barreaux, but Communes was very ripe.” 2026–28. 87
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Brûlées
Delicious, vivid red-cherry aroma. Lucid palate. Finely textured tannins, with a taffeta crispness and such elegance. It is intense and pure and glides on the finish. Spot-on. 2028–40. 95
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Chaumes
Perfume envelopes the red-fruit, supple palate. It’s charming and lightly rounded, having a juicy feel and a spicy finish. Pretty. “With Les Chaumes, you need to be hands off with the extraction, as it can be very tight,” says Méo. 2026–35. 92–93
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Cros Parentoux
Ripe, red-cherry fruit and a touch of anise. Gorgeous fruit, with a satin texture, depth, and juicy richness. This is layered and complex. Firmer on the finish, with a touch of tannin, which needs a light polish, but this is a beautifully balanced wine with a seamless feel. Just lovely Burgundy really. 2028–40+. 97
Richebourg Grand Cru
Glorious aroma, so intense. Such a seductive texture; it flows deep and rich and even, yet shimmers with light. Power and elegance combine effortlessly in this wine, which has a splendid finish. 2028–40+. 99
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Impressive density and intensity of ripe fruit. Powerful and succulent, but plenty of freshness. It has a broad structure, but is super-smooth. Quite suave really. Leans into its more elegant expression. An excellent Clos Vougeot. 2028–40. 98
Harvested September 1–8. There is a changeover in generations here, as Lucie Teillaud-Mugneret, daughter of Marie-Christine, is now working full-time in the winery, while her cousin Marion Nauleau-Mugneret, daughter of Marie-Andrée, manages the vineyards. “We pick from sunrise at 7am until 2pm. For the grapes picked after 11am, we chill the juice to 15–17ºC [59–62ºF], which we can do as we destem everything. “Not such high ripeness as 2019 and 2020. The alcohol is 12.5–13.5%. The first impression is the fresh fruit, and we keep the freshness. So, fruit and freshness. A very balanced vintage, without high alcohol levels. So, like 2017, it can be enjoyed quickly—unlike 2019 and 2020, which have high levels of concentration and alcohol, so we have to wait for those.”
They like some new oak at this domaine, but the proportion for the 2022 vintage is slightly higher than usual, with 50%for the village wines and the premiers crus, because the 2019, 2020, and 2021 vintages were so small. “We have no choice,” says Lucie. A blend of Rousseau, François Frères, Cavin, and, from 2018, Tremeaux. The wines were quite oaky when I tasted them, but I am hopeful that the ripe fruit should assimilate it.
Bourgogne
From vines on the other side of the road from the Charles Lachaux winery. Soft red fruit. Nicely rounded, plump, and attractive. Yummy. 2024–28. 84
Nuits-St-Georges Aux Bas du Combe
From a holding of 0.6 acre (0.25ha), so three to four barrels of wine. This plot was planted by Lucie’s great-grandfather, and it’s one of those that came back from the former sharecropping agreement. Juicy strike. Softly appealing, with a generosity of ripe forest fruits, sweetness of oak, and some sappy tannins, which serve to lift the finish. 2026–32. 87
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Chaignots
More upright and refined in texture than the Vignes-Rondes. There is some tension on the mid-palate, and a fresher, straighter but longer finish. 2027–35. 94
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Vignes-Rondes
A smooth glide into the palate, on milky chocolate tannins. A mixed compote of ripe red and black summer fruits. It is seductive and generous; just nicely fresh to finish. 2027–32. 92–93
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Feusselottes
Ripe and charming, densely fruity and juicy, with full body. Underneath, there is crisp freshness, and on the finish, vigor. 2027–38. 93–94
Vosne-Romanée
Softly rounded and generous wine, from a blend of four plots. Appealing red fruit, with smooth tannins. Just nicely balanced freshness and a slightly oaky note to finish. 2025–30. 86–87
Vosne-Romanée Colombière
Planted by Lucie’s great-grandfather in 1935. This is a level up in intensity of red fruit. Full and nicely concentrated, with velvet richness, but also more acidity. Focuses on the finish, which is longer. 2026–32. 89
Echézeaux Grand Cru
From two lieux-dits—1.5 acres (0.6ha) of Les Rouges du Bas, with 100-year-old vines, and 1.5 acres of Les Quartiers de Nuits, with 50-year-old vines—but sharecropped by Pascal Mugneret at Domaine Gérard Mugneret. “He is really focused on the vines,” says Lucie, “so, we are happy.” He is the cousin of Marie-Andrée and Marie-Christine. A fresh red-fruit aroma, slim and streamlined. Piquant. Neatly defined edges. Red peppercorn. Fine and crips tannins. More spicy intensity on the finish. An elegant and fresh Echézeaux. 2028–40. 96–97
Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Silky texture, fine and pure, yet deliciously ripe up-front, too. A mineral shiver on the savory, salty finish. Fine-boned. Lovely persistence. 2028–40. 97–98
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Full-bodied and so juicy. A quantity of fruit. There is richness and power. Punchy vigor. This a big wine, much thicker, robust tannin, and an earthiness. Strong on the finish. Sturdy. 2028–35. 95
DOMAINE JEAN TARDY ET FILS
Guillaume Tardy has made changes in the way he works the soil, to be kinder to the vines, and he introduces more humous into the vineyard. He is now in his third year of working organically. “I feel the vines are happier. The leaves are more upright and greener. It sounds stupid, but it is changing something.”
Tardy cut his teeth working with hot vintages in Australia, so he takes the warm Burgundy vintages in his stride. He always freezes the vat to 23ºF (-5ºC) before adding grapes, and pumps the juice out immediately, reducing it to 23ºFthrough a heat exchanger. It rises to 50ºF (10ºC) by the next morning, and he keeps it cold for one week. “It’s practical, so I can finish the harvest, and it acts to extract flavor and color. Starting from a low temperature, the yeast will produce more glycerol and it will extend the fermentation. It is part of my style now to have this kind of texture.”
He adds, “In 2022, we had to work the fruit a bit harder as we had a good amount of juice. I do pigeage only right at the end of the fermentation. I keep it at 90ºF (32ºC) while extracting more tannin. The heat will soften everything, giving softer tannins and more body.” He settles for ten days before putting the wine into barrel. “I like to age on fine lees, so I don’t need to rack the wines until bottling. When we rack, we have just two to three liters of lees per barrel.”
He describes 2022 as a “ripe vintage with good natural concentration and freshness—not overripe. It has red-fruit character, with a huge feeling of freshness. Everything is around 12.5% ABV. A very pretty vintage. Quite refreshing wines. Maybe like 2002, in its fragrance.”
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Cuvée Maelié
Violets and peppers. A fresh and lively, crunchy wine. It’s from Concoeur, just above Vosne-Romanée, where there is just a 0.5% ABV difference in ripeness, so it is picked straight after the Côte. 2025–28. 83
Côte de Nuits-Villages
From a new parcel in Comblanchein—a 3.5-acre (1.4ha) plot, from sandy, to deeper soils, planted between 1965 and 1985—and this is only the second vintage of this wine. Soft red-fruit aroma and a juicy palate. It is ripe and fresh. Splashing fruit, with an appetizing bite of tannin, and crisp to finish. 2025–30. 85
Fixin La Place
Clay terroir, just below the grand cru road going toward Marsannay. Hearty wine. Gutsy freshness and robust tannins,supported by lots of dark fruit. “I try to be very soft with extraction,” says Tardy. 2026–28. 85
Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier
Shallow, quite stony and silty, with not a lot of clay. Flowers and red fruit. Straight palate, fresh and quite sappy. Firm but fine tannins. A mineral bite. This really pushes through on an energetic finish. Elegant. This is my favorite village wine here. 2026–32. 90
Nuits-St-Georges Bas de Combe
From a 1.1-acre (0.45ha) parcel near the border with Vosne-Romanée. This is quite spicy, with white pepper. Soft, velvety tannins. Generously rounded. A little fresher than the Vigneux, rounder and a touch longer, too, but both are delicious. From very old vines, planted in 1937. Over the past two to three years, Tardy has replanted 500–600 vines, because many of the old vines are not producing. He could have ripped everything out, but preferred to nurture the old vines, which is a good thing, as this is a lovely village wine. 2027–35. 89–90
Vosne-Romanée Vigneux
A tar and licorice and floral aroma. Rich, smooth tannins, quite glossy and rounded—very much the Tardy style. He makes Chambolle, but I feel he is slightly less comfortable making it than he is wines from other villages. Nice concentration and freshness to finish. 2026–32. 88
Nuits-St-Georges
DOMAINE DE L’ARLOT
Geraldine Godot remarks, “With the 2022 vintage, we have increased the volume and kept the quality. We reach 38hl/ha for red and white, and 44hl/ha in 2023.” The yields were always rather low here—even in the generous 2018 vintage, they averaged only 27hl/ha. “We are seeing the result of ten years of work in the vineyard. Fertilizing the vineyards twice a year—in autumn for the soil and in spring for the vines—using organic material. All is destemmed in 2022, as is Geraldine’s preference, but in any case, there was not enough space for whole-bunch, given the higher volumes. The small 2021 crop was also all destemmed—a departure for this domaine. “We observed that the terroir character comes through without using stems. We were known for using stems in the past, and we are not fashionable now, but we don’t care about this.”
“Ripening was very quick, and we harvested from August 26 to 31. The picking date was a compromise between sugar and acidity—to preserve the acidity, we had to accept less sugar. But we must also pay attention to the phenolic maturity. We do more and more tasting now of the berries, to decide the moment to pick.” Generally, pHs here are 3.5–3.6 in 2022. (Clos du Chapeau always has a high pH, usually 3.7, probably due to high levels of potassium in the soil, so it needs adjusting.)
“The whites have a line. They’re aromatic, but we keep the purity of Burgundian Chardonnay. In the reds, we keep the freshness in 2022, and because of the higher yields, it is not too concentrated. With the exception of the Clos de l’Arlot, because of the terroir, the wines are quite robust, they have structure. We have some similarities with 2018 in terms of thestructure and tannins. It’s still early to drink the 2018s, and in 2022 we also need to pay attention to the drinking windows—2022 is not a vintage to drink young.”
White
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Le Mont
From a 2.5-acre (1ha) parcel above Clos des Fôrets, picked ten days later. The upper two thirds are planted toChardonnay, which I prefer this year. Bottled after one year. 15% new oak in a mixture of 500-liter and 228-liter barrels. Lemon-curd aroma. Citrus and creamy. Lightly nutty on the palate, with peachy fruit, but also fennel and caraway seeds. I like the bitter, tangy note. There is both ripeness and bitterness. Top-notch Hautes-Côtes and very appetizing. 2025–32. 86
Côte de Nuits-Villages Au Leurey
Other side of the road from the domaine. No new oak. No 2021 because of the frost. Ripe apricot, exotic aromas. There is some Muscat-clone Chardonnay here. A spiky palate, maybe because it was just bottled, albeit with just 20ppm free sulfur. Pithy, quite terse. Bitter lemon to finish. 2025–27. 85
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos de l’Arlot Blanc
25% new oak. Stone fruit, just-ripe apricot skin, and some white-flower notes. Silky and elegant. I like the freshness and vibrant clip. It is sappy, stony, and taut. Fizzles fresh on the finish. 2026–35. 92–93
Red
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Le Mont
Bottled. Upright, ripe red-currant aroma and ripe, almost jammy fruit on the palate, too, but the shape is slim and trim. Piquant and the tannins are crisp. Sweet, but also snaps and crackles. 2024–26. 85
Côte de Nuits-Villages Clos du Chapeau
Bottled. Sunny aromatics. Soft texture, rounded and sweet up-front, and quite generous, but with rather acerbic acidity and quite tangy, sappy tannins, which bite on the finish. 2025–28. 85
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Cuvée Mont des Oiseaux
Delicate, pretty, and pure. Fresh and dancing. Crisp tannins. A lively line of minerality at the end of the palate. Racy. Spit-spot. 2026–32. 92
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos de l’Arlot
From 60-year-old vines. 40% new oak. Wild-berry intensity. Fresh, juicy, and elegant, with finely textured, talc-smooth tannins. Intensity without weight. I like this lightness. A linear palate, with a high line and energy that carries the lively finish. 2026–38. 94
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Forêts St-Georges
The tannins are firm, and the wine is structured. Ripe fruit combines with plenty of tension. Deep mid-palate. Anise,savory bitterness carries on the finish, on a wave of sweet berry fruit and energy. Plenty of potential. 2028–38. 94
Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru
Fine, intense, and yet delicate floral aromatics on both nose and palate. Silky, slippery texture. Direct palate, channeled with energy and streamed with freshness, through an intense, almost-distillation of fruit. Exceedingly persistent. Wonderful finish. 99. 2028–40
JEAN-CLAUDE BOISSET
I preferred the reds to the whites. The reds are accessible, with an appealingly fruity and soft tannin profile and can be broached soon after bottling. The whites are driven more by winemaking and maturation than terroir. But everything at this negoce is accessible and forthcoming.
White
Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Cru Sur La Roche
This will please those looking for a traditional, full-bodied, ripe, and glossy Pouilly-Fuissé, although it’s not very representative of this climat on upper part of the Vergisson slope, which can produce something much more mineral. Caramel on the nose carries into the rich and creamy palate, which has slightly exotic fruit. Lime-like acidity to balance. 2024–26. 85
Santenay Premier Cru Passetemps
A waft of elderflower with vanilla on the aroma. The palate is spicy, buttery, and lifted with a herbal, minty note and twang. Sweet, yet tangy lemon citrus on the mid-palate combines with creaminess and a little minerality. The slightly bitter finish works here. 2024–27. 86
Red
Chorey-lès-Beaune Les Beaumonts
Splashy red-fruit aroma. An easy-going, nicely balanced palate, with juicy fruit and soft tannin. Just as it should be. Easy appeal. 2024–26. 84
Pommard Les Vaumuriens
Plenty of freshness and energy. Vibrant red-currant fruit. A slight herbal, piquant note on this straight and lean Pommard. The tannins are light, if slightly rustic; clearly a careful hand with extraction. Expresses its cooler terroir. 2024–27. 85
Volnay Premier Cru Les Santentots
Remarkably sweet fruit on this Santenots; broad beam, with a soft texture and a touch of rusticity to the tannin. Fruit-driven, very approachable, and easily likeable. Almost exotic to finish. 2025–30. 88–89
Nuits-St-Georges Les Charbonnières
Rather yummy, spicy, red-plum aroma and attack; lightly plump palate, with easy, soft, and loosely textured tannin. Kirsch-like black cherry on the finish, with a touch of licorice freshness to give a bit of lift. Certainly a ripe and accessible village wine from the southern, Premeaux part of Nuits. 2024–27. 85–86
Vosne-Romanée
More serious and structured than the previous village wines. Ripe, red summer fruits, slightly spicy, and the tannins are suede-supple. There is succulence and generosity. I would like to see more finish, but this is a charming village Vosne. 2024–27. 86–87
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
A forthcoming Clos de Vougeot. All nicely in place and harmonious. Ripe and generous fruit; full-bodied, with a soft and grainy texture. A touch of tannin, spice, and freshness carries it into the finish. Very relaxed, showing easy charm for this grand cru. 2026–30+. 92
EDOUARD DELAUNAY
My pick of the 22 wines tasted.
White
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Blanc Le Monts
Light lychee aroma. Fresh and crisp palate, which is straight, light, and salty. Appetizing bitterness. It’s good. 2024–26. 82
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Certainly some oak on the aroma. Rich mid-palate, with ripe, candied citrus fruit. There is depth and intensity. It focuses into a finish that is assertive and well-sustained. 2027–35. 96
Red
Chambolle-Musigny
Sweet raspberry fruit on both nose and palate. Good intensity and energy for a village wine. It’s ripe but also compact,with a delicious nugget of fruit mid-palate. The tannins are firm and smooth. There’s an overt oaky gloss to this Chambolle, but everything is well-supported by a fresh and sapid crackle, which carries it into a decent finish. 2026–30.87–88
Morey-St-Denis
Alluring, spicy, pink-peppercorn aroma leads into a lightly rounded and supple palate with summer fruits, underscored with just nice acidity. It finishes with a light crunch, a hint of roasted spices, and a slight frosty sparkle. Bright and airy. I really like this light and charming wine. 2025–30. 88+
Nuits-St-Georges
Vanilla and cherry-jam aroma. Succulent attack; this is plumply rounded. Concentrated black-cherry ripeness on the palate, accompanied by an appealing bitter-almond note. Juicy. Smoothly chunky texture and punchy. Touch oaky. A hint of chocolate and aromatic lift to finish. Forthcoming Nuits-St-Georges. 2026–30. 88
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Crots
Ripe, purple aroma and jammy, sweet, forest fruits is at odds with the lean austerity and chalkiness of texture. Interesting to see how this wine develops. Ripe, but straight, even severe. Pushes into a tart and savory, biting finish. Shows promise. 2026–32. 92–93
Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Poulettes
Sweet damson-ripe aroma. Glides into the palate on a satin texture and ripeness. But it’s sharp, precise, and linear. Underscored by super-fresh, cool, and talcy minerality. Sweet/sapid and well-sustained finish. There’s a natural harmony. An elegant Nuits-St-Georges, which really appeals to me. 2027–32+.94
Vougeot Premier Cru Les Petits Vougeots
Seductive, summer-fruit ripeness, with velvety richness underpinned by salty sapidity. It’s quite overt. Opens with a “bling” feel, but more interesting are the colder, crisper, and fresher notes and the tannic bite that gives contrast and balance. The finish is decent and attractively sappy. 2027–32+. 94
DOMAINE JOSEPH FAIVELEY
Jérôme Flous, the technical director, has an unparalleled overview of the Côte de Nuits. The lion’s share of Faiveley’s vineyards are in the Côte de Nuits and Mercurey, though they do also have holdings in the Côte de Beaune. Jérôme spoke of the heatwaves mid-May, mid-June, and mid-July, “but the most important factor was the storm in June.” The average rainfall in June, July, and August is 2.4 inches (60mm), but the Côte de Nuits received four times that amount in June 2022. The Côte de Beaune received about twice as much as average, but only half as much as the Côte de Nuits; there was 8 inches (205mm) in Gevrey, 9.4 inches (239mm) in Nuits-St-Georges, 4.2 inches (107mm) in Puligny, and 5.4 inches (136mm) in Mercurey. Ladoix is mid-way in location and rainfall in 2022, at 5.6 inches (142mm). Both Côtes received approximately 0.3 inches (8mm) rain in July and 1–1.4 inches (25–35mm) in August. This allowed the vines to function through the summer. It was very different from 2020, which was much drier, Gevrey having 2.6 inches (66mm) in June, 0.3 inches (8mm) in July, and 1.5 inches (38mm) in August—a total of 4.4 inches (112mm) less than the average 7 inches (180mm), hence the wines are more concentrated. “This rain affected the yields, the aromas, the acidity and sugar, and the overall style of the two vintages, making two hot and dry vintages very different,” remarks Jérôme.
2022 was the first year of organic production at Faiveley. There were no problems with the Pinot, but some of the Chardonnay had oidium, so Jérôme made a serious débourbage. To cool down the fruit, Faiveley has two cold rooms, one in Mercurey and one in Nuits-St-Georges large enough for 500 cases of 55lb (25kg). “They are indispensable now.” He trialed an optical sorting machine in Mercurey: “It works, but I am not yet convinced of the impact on the wine,” so he’s made a parallel test. He used whole-bunch on just a few wines, including the Musigny and the Amoureuses. He would like to do more, but he is worried by high pHs, especially in Gevrey. The fermentation was quite short in 2022, but unremarkable and classic. Jérôme keeps the level of new oak constant. “If I purchase too much new oak, I keep it in a damp cellar in Mercurey and use it the following year. We have made trials, and it does not affect the oak.” François Frères supplies roughly two thirds of the barrels, and Taransaud one third. “François Frères gives tension and precision, freshness and length. The quality of the oak is the most important thing. I am not convinced smaller coopers are able to buy the best wood.”
“The closest vintage in style is 2017, for both white and red, but 2022 is riper than 2017. It is ripe and approachable butnot too big or with too much acidity—there is not too much of anything. The best window will be five to ten years. The same as the 2017 for aging.”
Ladoix Les Marnes Blanches
From a young vineyard. Jérôme pulled out Pinot Noir and replanted to Chardonnay in 2013. Almond, with a touch of stone fruit, just-ripe apricot, and a savory finish. There is ripeness and roundness, but it’s not fruity or sweet in any way. Instant appeal. 2024–27. 86
Meursault Premier Cru Blagny
Good tension and flinty, smoky, slightly reductive notes. A straight and lively line, with neat edges, zesty and saline to finish. Good typicité. 2026–30+. 92–93
Bienvenues-Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru
Richly floral and tropical aromas (pineapple). An airy, full, and rounded palate. Good volume, but not heavy at all, as the texture is light and delicate and there is a sense of freshness and sapidity to finish. Both exotic and refined. 2027–38. 97
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
From Le Corton, which is cool and east-facing. Straight shoot on the attack. Direct, well-edged palate. Punchy. Good density. Long and savory to finish. 2027–38. 95–96
Red
Mercurey La Framboisière
Red-fruit and floral aroma, with really sweet, ripe, raspberry fruit on the palate, balanced by lively freshness. Good concentration. Crunchy tannins. 20% whole-bunch. Such an inviting Mercurey. 2024–28. 83–84
Volnay Premier Cru Les Fremiets
Perfumed. Silky smooth tannins, but with a crispness and good freshness. Clips along brightly. 2026–32. 91
Nuits-St-Georges Montroziers
From 12 parcels over 10 acres (4ha) on both sides of the village (a 16,000-bottle cuvée). Sweet attack, with plentiful, ripe summer fruit and smooth tannins. A notably silky texture for Nuits-St-Georges. Finishes on a bright note of pink peppercorn. 2026–30. 88
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Damodes
An aroma of warm strawberry fields. Ripe and aromatic. It’s a steep plot, so gets ripe. A delicate and airy palate with lively freshness. A pretty Nuits-St-Georges. Dances a quickstep on the palate, to a spicy finish. 2026–32. 92–93
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les St–Georges
Dark aroma, spicy with orange zest and cinnamon. Smooth entry, glides on firm, fine-textured tannins. A slight taffeta crunch at the end. A refined palate, with a lovely, long finish. “The 340mm [13.4 inches] of the water has made this more elegant, more like Chambolle,” says Jérôme. What a delight. 2027–40. 94–95
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Charmes
Notably perfumed. Wafts on the palate, which is enrobed in a cloud of purple aroma. Full, soft, and plumply rounded,with succulent depth of fruit, smooth texture, and a well-sustained aromatic finish. Crowd appeal. 2027–35+. 94
Musigny Grand Cru
Pure and intense. A distillation of rose-petal aroma enfolds the palate core, which is steely, channeled, and carries the strong, assertive, and persistent finish. It has poise and presence. 2028–40. 97–98
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Cazetiers
Intense aroma. Compact, stony, and grippy. This has punchy fruit, combined with stony austerity. An assertive, savory,sapid finish. Loving this. 2028–40. 96
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux St–Jacques
Red-fruit perfume, to a cool and crisp, linear palate. Less edgy than it can be. It’s rather well-mannered in 2022, but has a wet-stone and peppery feel. 2027–35. 93–94
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Florals (rose petals) and lightly spicy. Glorious fruit envelopes the palate. There is volume with elegance. Complex layering mid-palate, a fine silk texture, and a well-sustained finish. 2028–40. 96–97
Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
High-toned red-fruit aroma. Straight. Ringing, bright strike on the palate. It is nervy and tense. It fizzles with energy. Sapid, chalky finish. Lovely length. Excellent. 2027–40. 97–98
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Blueberry and graphite aroma. Satin texture, deep and juicy mid-palate. Loads of concentration. Density. Compact. Punches into the finish. Serous intension. Very good aging potential—and demands it. 2028–40+. 97–98
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
A big, broad wine with shoulders, but in 2022 they are cloaked with exuberant, juicy red fruit and there’s surprising freshness and vigorous energy. Smooth muscularity to the texture. 2028–40. 95–96
Echèzeaux Grand Cru En Orveaux
Slips in a silky stream across the palate. Lithe. Lively freshness, rippling energy on the finish. Salty at the end. 2027–36+. 96
Gregory Gouges says it is “A fleshy vintage, with quite high alcohol levels—13.5 to 14.5%. But the sweetness erases anyburning sensation from alcohol on the palate.” Gouges makes a comparison with 1959. The new oak is 20% for premier cru, with Sirugue, in Nuits, the favored cooper. These are quite rich wines for 2022—14% ABV is not that common in ’22—and it’s evident that Gouges went for maximum concentration, but there is good acidity, too. I like the wines much more than in the 2021 vintage, which was at the opposite extreme—a touch insubstantial.
They use as many whole berries as possible—one remontage a day and some pigeage on some cuvées. “Good quality fruit, so we could extract.” Whites were harvested on August 29, and the reds from September 2.
White
Bourgogne Blanc
Jasmine on the aroma. Juicy jump on the palate, with a sappy, fresh, and savory follow through. Nice touch of tension. A great Bourgogne. 2024–27. 86
Nuits St-Georges Premier Cru Perrières
This climat lies above Porrets. An expressive aroma of greengages and ripe apricot. It’s rich up-front, with some density mid-palate. More exotic and fuller than the 2021 (which I went back to try). Straight, but with glossy edges. Punchy and sappy on the finish. A good follow through. 2027–35. 92–93
Red
Nuits-St-Georges
Supple and juicy. Soft, suede tannins, with lively freshness and some delicious red-fruit richness to finish. From five parcels on the south side of the village. This is so much more impressive than the 2021. We are off to a good start. 2026–32. 87
Nuits-St-Georges Clos de La Fontaine Jacquinot
While all the other cuvées were destemmed, this has 20% whole-bunch. From the top of the hill above Château Gris. It is fresh and it crackles and pops. Plenty of energy. A leaner and tenser style, with a stonier finish than the previous blendedcuvée. More austere and strict. 2026–30. 88
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Chaignots
Slightly floral and a touch animal. Maybe a touch of reduction. But it has freshness on the palate and a light texture to the tannin. There is delicacy and an airy and bright line to the finish. Not yet all “in place” but promising. We will see.
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Chaines Cartaux
This is from the far south side of the village, above Les St-Georges, on quite a steep slope with a sandy soil. Really rather refined tannins. Fine, dark-chocolate snap of tannin. Slight bitterness. Straight and almost delicate for a Nuits-St-Georges. It is clear and crisp and pure. Dark, vivid, and refined. A restrained style. 2028–35. 94–95
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Porrets St-Georges (Monopole)
The 8.5-acre (3.5ha) of Clos des Porrets is a monopole of the domaine. Rich mulberry aroma, with a touch of leather. Certainly rich and generous on the attack. Deep mid-palate. A touch of milky chocolate. Dark and a bit robust, and yet rather a creamy character, which stretches into the finish. There is a density of fruit, but it is a touch heady. Quite an opulent wine. 2028–35. 93–94
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Pruliers
This is fresher than Porrets, but also concentrated. Polished leather tannins and a bite to the finish. Not especially long,though. Maybe not a good moment for this wine. 2028–35. 91
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les St-Georges
Surprisingly expressive aroma. Elegant sweep onto the palate. Finely textured tannins. Lighter than Vaucrains, but intense and streamlined on to the finish, which is notably vivid. It’s a more luminous wine. Both are good. This is a delight. More refined. Not quite a grand cru, but pretty good. 2028–40. 96–97
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Vaucrains
A smooth glide on a satin texture. It is rich but reserved, fresh, and tight. Nicely layered. Much more contained than the previous wines. Plenty of potential here. Power. Really focused and persistent. Impressive. 2028–40. 95–96
MAISON HENRI GOUGES
Gregory Gouges says, “The challenge was to manage the maturity, which is done mainly through the yield management. A hot summer, but it was also cloudy and stormy at times. Lots of water, which fell quickly, so it was difficult to assimilate. It was important to have sufficiently low yields for the phenolic maturity to arrive at the same time as the high sugar concentration. Disparities will surely come with the yields.” This is a comment across the domaine and the négoce.
Côte de Nuits-Villages
Soft and juicy red fruit, with an earthy, floral perfume to finish. It is simple, attractive, and accessible, with a just nicely fresh uplift. 2024–27. 83
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Cailles
A pure, delicate, singing, red-fruit aroma. Silky entry, with finely textured tannins and a lively freshness. A touch of chalky minerality to finish. Delicate sapidity. 2026–35. 93
Based in Nuits-St-Georges, Pascal Marchand averages 150,000 bottles a year. He established his négociant business in 2006, after working at Domaines de la Vougeraie and Comte Armand. The Tawse collaboration began in 2010, when Thomas Dinel became the hands-on winemaker. There are 20 acres (8ha) of domaine land, representing 70 percent of production, half of which is in the Côte de Beaune. Vignes de la Famille Tawse is indicated on the label of domaine wines. In total, there are 60 cuvées. “All these warm years are so different,” says Tawse. “Both the alcohol and the acidity were lower in 2022 than in 2019 or 2020. It is like 2005, but with some differences—a warmer and nicer summer than in 2005, but it’s similar in the levels of alcohol and acidity and the balance.” Marchand has been biodynamic in his approach since 1988, but with dwindling enthusiasm. “We still follow the calendar, but I haven’t used the preparations for three years.” The domaine is certified organic, and 6 acres (2.5ha) is plowed by horse, to avoid compacting the soil.
Marchand has been making wine for 40 years. “We (in Burgundy) now trust our vineyards more and use less extraction than in the old days.” He uses some whole-bunch, but not for everything. “Whole-bunch is good if you cannot see it. If you see it—run!” And yes, Marchand’s use of whole-bunch is very discreet. I have selected from among the many wines tasted and would also flag up the Marsannay, Côtes de Nuits-Villages, Pommard Rugiens, and the wonderfully intense, hand-destemmed Musigny.
Bourgogne Côte d’Or
Fruit from Premeaux, Ladoix, and Puligny, made in barrel and foudres. Red fruit with spicy anise notes on the nose. Red cherries, with plenty of freshness, an attractive bitter note, and a light crunch to the finish. For a large cuvée of 18,000 bottles, this has plenty of personality. 2024–26. 82
Beaune Premier Cru Le Teurons
From the bottom part of the climat, plowed by horse. All destemmed and 50% new oak. An elegant Beaune, showing both intensity and finesse. Combines richness of fruit with talcy tannin. 2026–32. 92
Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru Lavières
Vignes de la Famille Tawse. This includes fruit from 90-year-old vines. Destemmed. Smooth, ripping slide into the palate. Super-silky and fresh, with a lightly salty finish. Spot-on. 2025–32. 91
Nuits-St-Georges
All destemmed. Floral lift. Blueberries on the attack. Splashing. Mouthwateringly fruity, with a fresh bite of tannin. 2026–30. 86
Nuits-St-Georges Le Longecourts
From a village lieu-dit on the south side. Rather suave, with a satiny texture. Good intensity as it sweeps into a fresh finish. Rather good. 2026–35. 88
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Perrières
Pure and upright aroma. Fine and crisp. Red fruit. Straight palate, with plenty of tension and a cold, chalky note. You see the sharp edges and I like the sapid finish. 2027–35. 94
Vosne-Romanée
A large proportion of the fruit is from Aux Réas, and it is all destemmed. 30% new oak. Full, rounded, and rich, with a light, velvet texture and nicely balanced acidity. Chunky opulence. 2026–32. 88
Chambolle-Musigny
All of the parcels for this wine are in the lower village vineyards under the premiers crus. Ripe summer-fruit aroma. Gorgeous fruit on the palate, too; succulent and deep. Very scented and juicy on the finish. Just delicious. “I first started making Chambolle in 2009, and first I was satisfied with was the 2016.” Good job. 2026–32. 89
Morey-St-Denis En Rue de Vergy
80% whole-bunch. High-wired, straight, and vivid, with red-currant fruit. Fine, snappy, crunchy tannins. Very crisp, delicate, and aromatic on the finish. 2026–32. 88–89
Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru Clos des Ormes
From the top of the vineyard. 25% whole-bunch. Light and energetic. Aromatic and delicate, with a vibrant twang to the finish. A pretty wine. 2026–32. 91–92
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
100% new oak, which is quite dominant. Strict and assured. There is depth and tension on the mid-palate, and an assertiveand persistent, chalky finish. 2028–40. 97
Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud
Rose-petal aroma. 100% whole-bunch. Two barrels. Bounces onto the palate. Juicy and vibrant. This sings on the finish,with a twist of tarragon. Excellent use of whole-bunch. 2026–35. 89–90
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Champeaux
Vignes de la Famille Tawse, from the top end in the old quarry. Expressive, vibrant red-cherry aroma. It is gregarious and juicy, with an energetic, bitter, anise note and nicely balanced acidity; smooth tannins and some lively tension to finish. 2027–35. 93–94
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux St-Jacques
Vignes de la Famille Tawse, planted in the 1930s. Elegant, pure, and rippling. Neatly woven acidity. It is slim, delicate, and precise. 2026–35. 93–94
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
80% whole-bunch. Expressively aromatic on both nose and palate. Full and rounded, with lots of volume underscored bycrisp acidity and a lively frisson on the finish. It’s a good one. 2028–40. 97
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Vignes de la Famille Tawse, 1.85 acres (0.75ha). 45% whole-bunch. Super-energetic and streamlined. It combines power with elegance and, somehow, a wilder, forest feel. Lovely, long finish. Great persistence. 2028–40. 98
Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru
Vignes de la Famille Tawse, with two thirds whole-bunch and the same proportion of new oak. Immediate depth and intensity. There is power and elegance with succulence. It is much less aromatic than the Charmes, but has a really fresh drive and tension on the finish. Well-focused. 2028–40. 97
Amaury Devillard of the owning family says, “2016 is a vintage I love for reds—2022 is similar and presenting even better. A solar vintage, but with a Burgundian expression. It will be enjoyable young but also has good aging potential. If I produced 2022 every year, I would be very happy.”
Bourgogne Aligoté
From a small plot on the south side of Nuits-St-Georges—just 900 bottles. Light and lemony aroma, with a racy, pithy palate. Very attractive. Keen and bright. 2024–26. 84
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
From vines above Prémeaux, on a very white limestone soil. Two parcels of 1.2 acres (0.5ha), planted 15 and 20 years ago. “Mostly Pinot Noir is planted here, but it is definitely a great place for Chardonnay.” Glossy mandarin aroma, to a juicy and sappy palate, with a pinging, chalky finish. 2024–26. 85
Red
Vosne-Romanée
This is much more sophisticated than the Nuits-St-Georges Village. Fine-textured tannins, some tension, and a lively finish. 2026–28. 88
Nuits-St-Georges
A blend of three parcels, including Au Bas de Combe and Aux Barrière. Clay-rich. Juicy and generous. It has soft and thickly burly tannins and dark fruit. 2025–29. 87
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Perdrix
This climat was planted in 1922 and in the 1970s, with a high density of 13,000 vines per hectare. It is a convex parcel facing east on the mid-slope—not quite a monopoly, but only four rows remain with the previous owner. Glides on black satin. Rich and juicy, slightly sumptuous in the middle, and fresh on the sensual finish. Rather gorgeous. 2027–35. 94–95
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Perdrix Cuvée Les 8 Ouvrées
From vines planted in 1922, just 0.75 acre (0.33ha), trellised on cordon royat. More concentrated, richer, and more powerful, with a firmer tannin structure. Spicy and assertive finish. Less expressive and more reserved. 2028–35. 94–95
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Terres Blanches
From the highest part of the parcel. Fine and delicate Nuits-St-Georges. Crisp, chilly palate, with a chalky texture. Pure and salty finish. Straight. Love it. 2027–35. 93–94
